Diana Crane

In nineteenth—century America, women were encouraged to wear skirts and dresses for all occasions- even household chores. Excessively tight waistlines and long, bulky skirts became especially popular, despite complaints that these styles were awkward and cumbersome. Some historians believe such fashion trends are clues to society's ideas about women's roles. For instance, women were regarded as less physically active than men and more suited for homebased pastimes. The impractical design of women's garments-which prevented physical movement- reflected this attitude.

In the mid—1850s, a movement called Alternative Dress Reform introduced more functional, or "rational," clothing for women, including three styles of pants. The movement corresponded to the rise of recreational and school sports such as bicycling, swimming, and horseback riding. These activities prompted women to leave the...