of an Arabian Desert. One reads of “isles
of the sandy sea,” but one never sees them.
The real “Wady” is, generally speaking,
a rocky valley bisected by the bed of a mountain torrent,
dry during the hot season. In such places the
Badawin love to encamp, because they find food and
drink,-water being always procurable by digging.
When the supply is perennial, the Wady becomes the
site of a village. The Desert is as unaptly compared
to a “sandy sea.” Most of the wilds
of Arabia resemble the tract between Suez and Cairo;
only the former are of primary formation, whereas the
others are of a later date. Sand-heaps are found
in every Desert, but sand-plains are a local feature,
not the general face of the country. The Wilderness,
east of the Nile, is mostly a hard dry earth, which
requires only a monsoon to become highly productive:
even where silicious sand covers the plain, the waters
of a torrent, depositing humus or vegetable mould,
bind the particles together, and fit it for the reception
of seed. [FN#16] The intelligent reader will easily
understand that I am speaking of the Desert in the
temperate season, not during the summer heats, when
the whole is one vast furnace, nor in winter, when
the Sarsar wind cuts like an Italian Tramontana.
[FN#17] This, as a general rule in Al-Islam, is a sign
that the Maghrib or evening prayer must not be delayed.
The Shafe’i school performs its devotions immediately
after the sun has disappeared. [FN#18] This salutation
of peace is so differently pronounced by every Eastern
nation that the observing traveller will easily make
of it a shibboleth. [FN#19] To “nakh”
in vulgar, as in classical, Arabic is to gurgle “Ikh!
ikh!” in the bottom of one’s throat till
the camel kneels down. We have no English word
for this proceeding; but Anglo-Oriental travellers
are rapidly naturalising the “nakh.”
[FN#20] There are many qualifications necessary for
an Imam-a leader of prayer; the first condition, of
course, is orthodoxy. [FN#21] “The sun shall
not smite thee by day, nor the moon by night,”
(Psalm cxxi. 6). Easterns still believe firmly
in the evil effects of moonlight upon the human frame,-from
Sind to Abyssinia, the traveller will hear tales of
wonder concerning it. [FN#22] The Dum i Gurg, or wolf’s
tail, is the Persian name for the first brushes of
grey light which appear as forerunners of dawn. [FN#23]
Dar al-Bayda is a palace belonging to H.H. Abbas
Pasha. This “white house” was formerly
called the “red house,” I believe from
the colour of its windows,-but the name was changed,
as being not particularly good-omened. [FN#24] The
Tetrao Kata or sand-grouse, (Pterocles melanogaster;
in Sind called the rock pigeon), is a fast-flying
bird, not unlike a grey partridge whilst upon the
wing. When, therefore, Shanfara boasts “The
ash-coloured Katas can only drink my leavings, after
hastening all night to slake their thirst in the morning,”
it is a hyperbole to express exceeding swiftness.
[FN#25] I have already, when writing upon the subject