Value depends rather upon what sort of a growth the tree makes afterward than upon what it starts upon.  Theoretically perhaps a whole-root tree may be demonstrated to be better; practically, we cannot see that it becomes so necessarily, because we have trees planted at a time when the root graft on a piece was the general rule in propagation.  After all, is it not more important to have soil conditions and culture of such character that a great root can grow in the orchard than to have a whole nursery concentrated in the root of the yearling tree?  As for the claim that a root graft on a piece-root never makes a vigorous tree, we know that is nonsense.

Planting Deciduous Fruit Trees.

In order to gain time, I have thought of planting apples and pears this fall, in the belief I would be just that much nearer a crop, than though I waited until next spring.  The land is sandy loam; no irrigation.  Would you advise fall or spring planting?  If fall, would it be best to plow the land now, turning in the stubble from hay crop, or wait until time to plant before plowing?

You will not be any nearer a crop, for next summer’s growth will be the first in either case.  On land not liable to be too wet in winter, it is, however, best to plant early, say during the month of December, if the ground is in good condition and sufficiently moist.  If the year’s rainfall has been scant, wait until the land is well wet down, for it is never desirable to plant when the soil is not in the right condition, no matter what the calendar may say.  On a sandy loam early planting is nearly always safe and desirable.  On lands which are too wet and liable to be rendered very cold by the heavy January rains, planting had better be deferred until February, or as soon as the ground gets in good condition after these heavy rains.  Whenever you plant, it will be desirable to plow the land either in advance of the rains, if it is workable, or as soon as rain enough comes to make it break up well.  It is very seldom desirable to postpone plowing until the actual time of planting comes.

Budding Fruit Trees.

Is it better to bud in old bark of an old tree or in younger wood bark? 
How do you separate old bark without breaking it in lifting the bark?

Buds may be placed in old bark of fruit trees to a certain extent.  The orange and the olive work better that way than do the deciduous trees, although buds in old bark of the peach have done well.  They should, however, be inserted early in the season while the sap flow is active and the old bark capable of lifting; if the bark sticks, do not try budding.  In spite of these facts, nearly all budding of deciduous trees is done in bark of the current year’s growth.

Starting Fruit Trees from Seed.

How shall I start, and when, the following seeds:  Peach, plums, apricots, walnuts, olives and cherries?  In the East we used to plant them in the fall, so as to have them freeze; as it does not freeze enough here, what do I have to do?