Trees Over a Gravel Streak.

I have an apricot orchard seven years old.  Most of the land is a fairly heavy clay with a strip of gravel in the middle running nearly north and south.  The trees on the clay bear good crops, but those on the gravel are usually much lighter in bearing and this year had a very light crop.  Can you tell me of anything I can do to make them bear?  The trees are large and healthy looking, and grow big crops of brush.

We should try some water in July on the gravel streak, hoping to continue activity in the tree later to induce formation of strong fruit for the following year.  On the clay loam the soil does this by its superior retentiveness.

Fruit and Overflow.

I have 16 acres of rich bottom-land that overflows and is under water from 24 to 48 hours.  I would like to set the ground to fruit trees, either prunes, pears, apricots, or peaches.  Would it be safe to set them on such land?

Fruit trees will endure overflowing, providing the water does not exclude the air too long and providing the soil is free enough so that the soil does not remain full of water after the surface flow disappears.  If the soil does not naturally drain itself and the water is forced to escape by surface evaporation, probably the situation is not satisfactory for any kind of fruit trees.  Overflow is more likely to be dangerous to fruit trees during the growing season than during the dormant season, and yet on well-drained soil even a small overflow may not be injurious on a free soil, if not continued too long.  Prunes on plum root, and pears will endure wet soil better than apricots or peaches.

Fruit Trees and Sunburn.

How long is it wise to leave protection around young fruit trees set out in March in this hot valley?  The trees are doing well, but we could not tell when to take away protection.

It is necessary to maintain the protection from sunburn all through the autumn, for the autumn sun is often very hot, and as the sap flow lessens, the danger of burning is apparently greater.  The bark also must be protected against the spring sunshine, even before the leaves appear.  So long as the sun has a chance at the bark, you must protect it from sunburn.

Replanting in Orchard.

Is it considered a good plan to set the tree at once in the place where one has died, or is it better to wait a year before replacing?

It is not necessary to wait a year in making a replanting.  Get out all the old roots you can by digging a large hole, fill in with fresh soil, and your tree will accept the situation.

Whole Roots or Piece Roots.

For commercial apple orchards which is preferable, trees grafted on piece roots or on whole roots?  On behalf of the piece-root trees it is claimed they sprout up less around the tree.  On the other hand, it is claimed they never make a vigorous tree.  What is the truth?