properly means the capitation tax levied on Infidels;
in this land of intense pride, the Badawin, and even
the town-chiefs, apply the opprobrious term to blackmail
extorted from travellers, even of their own creed.
[FN#17] The Shugduf of Al-Hijaz differs greatly from
that used in Syria and other countries. It is
composed of two corded cots 5 feet long, slung horizontally,
about half-way down, and parallel with the camel’s
sides. These cots have short legs, and at the
halt may be used as bedsteads; the two are connected
together by loose ropes, attached to the inner long
sides of the framework, and these are thrown over the
camel’s packsaddle. Thick twigs inserted
in the ends and the outer long sides of the framework,
are bent over the top, bower-fashion, to support matting,
carpets, and any other protection against the sun.
There is an opening in this kind of wicker-work in
front (towards the camel’s head), through which
you creep; and a similar one behind creates a draught
of wind. Outside, towards the camel’s tail,
are pockets containing gullehs, or earthenware bottles,
of cooled water. Inside, attached to the wickerwork,
are large provision pouches, similar to those used
in old-fashioned travelling chariots. At the
bottom are spread the two beds. The greatest disadvantage
of the Shugduf is the difficulty of keeping balance.
Two men ride in it, and their weights must be made
to tally. Moreover, it is liable to be caught
and torn by thorn trees, to be blown off in a gale
of wind; and its awkwardness causes the camel repeated
falls, which are most likely to smash it. Yet
it is not necessarily an uncomfortable machine.
Those for sale in the bazar are, of course, worthless,
being made of badly seasoned wood. But private
litters are sometimes pleasant vehicles, with turned
and painted framework, silk cordage, and valuable carpets.
The often described “Mahmil” is nothing
but a Syrian Shugduf, royally ornamented. [FN#18]
" Exquisites.” [FN#19] It is the same rule with
the Arab, on the road as at home; the more he is dressed
the greater is his respectability. For this reason,
you see Sharifs and other men of high family, riding
or walking in their warm camel’s hair robes
on the hottest days. Another superstition of
the Arabs is this, that thick clothes avert the evil
effects of the sun’s beams, by keeping out heat.
To the kindness of a friend-Thomas Seddon-I owe the
admirable sketch of an “Arab Shaykh in his Travelling
Dress.” [FN#20] Sharifs and other great men
sometimes bind a white turband or a Cashmere shawl
round the kerchief, to keep it in its place. The
Aakal varies in every part of the country. Here
it is a twist of dyed wool, there a bit of common
rope, three or four feet long. Some of the Arab
tribes use a circlet of wood, composed of little round
pieces, the size of a shilling, joined side by side,
and inlaid with mother-of-pearl. The Eastern
Arabs wear a large circle of brown wool, almost a turband
in itself. In Barbary, they twist brightcoloured


