captain for providing water, and to keep the key.
[FN#4] The “opener"-the first chapter of the
Koran, which Moslems recite as Christians do the Lord’s
Prayer; it is also used on occasions of danger, the
beginnings of journeys, to bind contracts, &c. [FN#5]
These Maghrabis, like the Somalis, the Wahhabis of
the desert, and certain other barbarous races, unaccustomed
to tobacco, appeared to hate the smell of a pipe.
[FN#6] The hands are raised in order to catch the blessing
that is supposed to descend from heaven upon the devotee;
and the meaning of drawing the palms down the face
is symbolically to transfer the benediction to every
part of the body. [FN#7] As is the case under all
despotic governments, nothing can be more intentionally
offensive than the official manners of a superior to
his inferior in Egypt. The Indians charge their
European fellow-subjects with insolence of demeanour
and coarseness of language. As far as my experience
goes, our roughness and brusquerie are mere politeness
compared with what passes between Easterns. At
the same time it must be owned that I have seen the
worst of it. [FN#8] It was far safer and more expeditious
in Al-Adrisi’s day (A.D. 1154), when the captain
used to sit on the poop “furnished with numerous
and useful instruments”; when he “sounded
the shallows, and by his knowledge of the depths could
direct the helmsman where to steer.” [FN#9]
In the East it is usual, when commencing a voyage or
a journey, to make a short day’s work, in order
to be at a convenient distance for returning, in case
of any essential article having been forgotten. [FN#10]
A Jesuit missionary who visited the place in A.D. 1720,
and described it in a well-known volume. As every
eminent author, however, monopolises a “crossing,”
and since the head of the Suez creek, as is shown
by its old watermark, has materially changed within
no very distant period, it is no wonder that the question
is still sub judice, and that there it will remain
most probably till the end of time. The Christians
have two equally favourite lines: the Moslems
patronise one so impossible, that it has had attractions
enough to fix their choice. It extends from Zafaran
Point to Hammam Bluffs, ten miles of deep water. [FN#11]
The Hebrew name of this part of the Red Sea. In
a communication lately made to the Royal Geographical
Society, I gave my reasons for believing that the
Greeks borrowed their Erythraean Sea from the Arabic
“Sea of Himyar.” [FN#12] Most travellers
remark that they have never seen a brighter blue than
that of the Red Sea. It was the observation of
an early age that “the Rede Sea is not more
rede than any other sea, but in some place thereof
is the gravelle rede, and therefore men clepen it the
Rede Sea.” [FN#13] Jild al-Faras (or Kamar al-Din),
a composition of apricot paste, dried, spread out,
and folded into sheets, exactly resembling the article
after which it is named. Turks and Arabs use it
when travelling; they dissolve it in water, and eat


