across the Desert.  The “Bir Suez” is fit for beasts only; the ‘Uyun Musa (Moses’ Wells) on the Eastern side, and that below Abu Daraj, on the Western shore of the Suez Gulf, are but little better.  The want of sweet water is the reason why no Hammam is found at Suez. [FN#32] The “George”:  so called after its owner, a Copt, Consular Agent for Belgium.  There are 36 Caravanserais at Suez, 33 small ones for merchandise, and 3 for travellers; of these the best is that of Sayyid Hashim.  The pilgrim, however, must not expect much comfort or convenience, even at Sayyid Hashim’s.

[p.160]Chapter IX.

Suez.

Early on the morning after my arrival, I arose, and consulted my new acquaintances about the means of recovering the missing property.  They unanimously advised a visit to the governor, whom, however, they described to be a “Kalb ibn kalb,” (dog, son of a dog,) who never returned Moslems’ salutations, and who thought all men dirt to be trodden under foot by the Turks.  The boy Mohammed showed his savoir faire by extracting from his huge Sahara-box a fine embroidered cap, and a grand peach-coloured coat, with which I was instantly invested; he dressed himself with similar magnificence, and we then set out to the “palace.”

Ja’afar Bey,-he has since been deposed,-then occupied the position of judge, officer commanding, collector of customs, and magistrate of Suez.  He was a Mir-liwa, or brigadier-general, and had some reputation as a soldier, together with a slight tincture of European science and language.  The large old Turk received me most superciliously, disdained all return of salam, and, fixing upon me two little eyes like gimlets, demanded my business.  I stated that one Shaykh Nur, my Hindi servant, had played me false; therefore I required permission to break into the room supposed to contain my effects.  He asked my profession.  I replied the medical.  This led him to inquire if I had any medicine for the eyes, and

[p.161]being answered in the affirmative, he sent a messenger with me to enforce obedience on the part of the porter.  The obnoxious measure was, however, unnecessary.  As we entered the Caravanserai, there appeared at the door the black face of Shaykh Nur, looking, though accompanied by sundry fellow-countrymen, uncommonly as if he merited and expected the bamboo.  He had, by his own account, been seduced into the festivities of a coal-hulk, manned by Lascars, and the vehemence of his self-accusation saved him from the chastisement which I had determined to administer.

I must now briefly describe the party of Meccah and Madinah men into which fate threw me:  their names will so frequently appear in the following pages, that a few words about their natures will not be misplaced.