[FN#l] The proper hire of a return dromedary from Cairo to Suez is forty piastres.  But every man is charged in proportion to his rank, and Europeans generally pay about double. [FN#2] The tender traveller had better provide himself with a pair of stirrups, but he will often find, when on camel back, that his legs are more numbed by hanging down, than by the Arab way of crossing them before and beneath the pommel.  He must, however, be careful to inspect his saddle, and, should bars of wood not suit him, to have them covered with stuffed leather.  And again, for my part, I would prefer riding a camel with a nose-ring,-Mongol and Sindian fashion,-to holding him, as the Egyptians do, with a halter, or to guiding him,-Wahhabiwise,-with a stick. [FN#3] “O pilgrim!” The Egyptians write the word Hajj, and pronounce Hagg.  In Persia, India, and Turkey, it becomes Haji.  These are mere varieties of form, derived from one and the same Arabic root. [FN#4] The Egyptians and Arabs will not address “Salam” to an infidel; the Moslems of India have no such objection.  This, on the banks of the Nile, is the revival of an old prejudice.  Alexander of Alexandria, in his circular letter, describes the Arian heretics as “men whom it is not lawful to salute, or to bid God-speed.” [FN#5] It is Prince Puckler Muskau, if I recollect rightly, who mentions that in his case a pair of dark spectacles produced a marked difference of apparent temperature, whilst travelling over the sultry sand of the Desert.  I have often remarked the same phenomenon.  The Arabs, doubtless for some reason of the kind, always draw their head-kerchiefs, like hoods, far over their brows, and cover up their mouths, even when the sun and wind are behind them.  Inhabitants of the Desert are to be recognised by the net-work of wrinkles traced in the skin round the orbits, the result of half-closing their eyelids; but this is done to temper the intensity of the light. [FN#6] Their own pipe-tubes were of coarse wood, in shape somewhat resembling the German porcelain pipe.  The bowl was of soft stone, apparently steatite, which, when fresh, is easily fashioned with a knife.  In Arabia the Badawin, and even the townspeople, use on journeys an earthen tube from five to six inches shorter than the English “clay,” thicker in the tube, with a large bowl, and coloured yellowish-red.  It contains a handful of tobacco, and the smoker emits puffs like a chimney.  In some of these articles the bowl forms a rectangle with the tube; in others, the whole is an unbroken curve, like the old Turkish Meerschaum. [FN#7] See Wallin’s papers, published in the Journals of the Royal Geographical Society. [FN#8] Shurum, (plural of Sharm, a creek), a word prefixed to the proper names of three small ports in the Sinaitic peninsula. [FN#9] Tawarah, plural of Turi, an inhabitant of Tur or Sinai. [FN#10] This feature did not escape the practised eye of Denon.  “Eyes long, almond-shaped, half shut, and languishing, and turned up at the outer corner, as if habitually fatigued