Almost all the articles of food were so far useful,
that they served every one of the party at least as
much as they did their owner. My friends drank
my coffee, smoked my tobacco, and ate my rice.
I bought better tea at Meccah than at Cairo, and found
as good sugar there. It would have been wiser
to lay in a small stock merely for the voyage to Yambu’,
in which case there might have been more economy.
But I followed the advice of those interested in setting
me wrong. Turks and Egyptians always go pilgrimaging
with a large outfit, as notably as the East-Indian
cadet of the present day, and your outfitter at Cairo,
as well as Cornhill, is sure to supply you with a variety
of superfluities. The tent was useful to me;
so were the water-skins, which I preferred to barrels,
as being more portable, and less liable to leak.
Good skins cost about a dollar each; they should be
bought new and always kept half full of water. [FN#15]
This shape secures the lid, which otherwise, on account
of the weight of the box, would infallibly be torn
off, or burst open. Like the Kafas, the Sahharah
should be well padlocked, and if the owner be a saving
man, he does not entrust his keys to a servant.
I gave away my Kafas at Yambu’, because it had
been crushed during the sea-voyage, and I was obliged
to leave the Sahharah at Al-Madinah, as my Badawi
camel-shaykh positively refused to carry it to Meccah,
so that both these articles were well nigh useless
to me. The Kafas cost four shillings, and the
Sahharah about twelve. When these large boxes
are really strong and good, they are worth about a
pound sterling each. [FN#16] At my final interview
with the committee of the Royal Geographical Society,
one member, Sir Woodbine Parish, advised an order
to be made out on the Society’s bankers; another,
Sir Roderick Murchison, kindly offered to give me
one on his own, Coutts & Co.; but I, having more experience
in Oriental travelling, begged only to be furnished
with a diminutive piece of paper, permitting me to
draw upon the Society. It was at once given by
Dr. Shaw, the Secretary, and it proved of much use
eventually. It was purposely made as small as
possible, in order to fit into a talisman case.
But the traveller must bear in mind, that if his letters
of credit be addressed to Orientals, the sheet of
paper should always be large, and grand-looking.
These people have no faith in notes,-commercial, epistolary,
or diplomatic. [FN#17] Before leaving Cairo, I bought
English sovereigns for 112, and sold them in Arabia
for 122 piastres. “Abu Takahs,” (pataks,
or Spanish pillar-dollars), as they are called in
Al-Hijaz, cost me 24 piastres, and in the Holy City
were worth 28. The “Sinku” (French
five franc piece) is bought for 22 piastres in Egypt,
and sells at 24 in Arabia. The silver Majidi
costs 20 at Cairo, and is worth 22 in the Red Sea,
and finally I gained 3 piastres upon the gold “Ghazi”
of 19. Such was the rate of exchange in 1853.
It varies, however, perpetually, and in 1863 may be


