chaos. The boat rolled and plunged. The
wild waters rolled over us, filling the open spaces
to the gunwale. With the camp kettles that were
left out of the cabins for that purpose, Hillers and
I bailed as hard as we could, letting the boat go
with the current, but it seemed to do little good,
for every moment the waves broke over the craft from
end to end, and our efforts might as well have been
made with a teaspoon, though in many other rapids
the kettles had proved effective. Here and there,
as we shot down, I could look back under a canopy
of foam and see the head of a great black rock.
Fortunately we safely cleared everything, and in probably
less than a minute we were at the bottom, lying to
in an eddy, bailing fast and watching for the other
boat. No sign of any living thing could be discovered
as we peered up the rapid, which from below had the
appearance of an almost vertical fall. Presently
at the top of the foam a white speck moved, clearly
seen against the dark background. It was the
Canonita on the edge of the fall. I can see her
yet, pausing for an instant, apparently, and then
disappearing completely amidst the plunging waters.
A minute later she reappeared at the bottom and ran
alongside of us in good order. Owing to the large
amount of water there seemed to be not much danger
of striking a rock, and our boats did not capsize easily.
After the plunge was begun we did not try to guide
the boats—it would have been useless.
The fall here was about forty feet in a third of a
mile. Some of the men called it the Sockdologer.
The picture of it from above, on page 219, does not
give a correct impression, as the plate was too slow,
but it was the best that could be done at the time.
The canyon continued very narrow at the bottom, the
river averaging about one hundred and fifty feet.
Late in the afternoon we arrived at a much worse place
than the Sockdologer, though the fall was not so great.
Landing on the left on some broken rocks, we saw no
chance of getting around the rapid there, so we crossed
to the right and landed on another little pile of
rocks in a small alcove. The walls rose vertically,
or nearly so, from the water’s edge. We
saw the only thing to do was to lower one boat, with
two men on board, by her line for some distance (a
hundred feet of best Manila rope were attached to
each boat by a strong iron ring; in the stern was also
an iron ring), and from the stern let the other cautiously
down to the very head of the fall, where there was
a second pile of rocks which received the boat between
them and held her fast. The upper boat was then
pulled back to where we had remained, the line from
the second being tied to her stern. Entering
her we clung to projections of the wall with our hands,
to prevent the current from swinging the boat out,
while the men who were in the lower boat carefully
hauled on the stern line till at last we also reached
the rocks. With a great deal of labour we then
worked both boats from these rocks to some others


