less than fifty miles in length as the stream runs,
contains the wildest, swiftest, steepest piece of river
on this continent except a portion in Cataract Canyon.
The declivity is tremendous. Between the Little
Colorado and the Kanab the total fall is 890 feet,
and the bulk of this drop occurs in the granite.
In one stretch of ten miles the descent is 210 feet.
All through this granite the character of the river
is different from anything above. The falls are
short and violent, while the stretches in between are
smooth and not always swift. But the moment a
break occurs the turbulence and commotion are instantly
very great. The summer is the wet season here,
and to add to our troubles we were treated to frequent
rains. The next day toward noon, as we were sailing
along between the black walls, on a rather sluggish
current, a deep-toned roar was borne up to our ears.
Nothing could be seen of the cause of it, but a complete
disappearance of the river from our sight warned us
to make a landing as soon as possible. Some broken
rocks protruding a few feet above the water at the
base of the right-hand wall afforded the desired opportunity,
and running in we stepped out and mounted them.
The cause of the roaring was immediately apparent.
For a third of a mile the river was a solid mass of
huge waves and foam and plunges, and on each side
the granite came down so precipitously that a footing
was impossible. It took no second glance to tell
us that, at least with this stage of water, there was
but one course, and that was to run the place.
There is nothing like having the inner man fortified
for exertion, therefore with a few bits of driftwood
a fire was built, by means of which Andy prepared dinner.
When this had been disposed of operations were begun.
The Canonita was to remain here till our boat was
well through. In case we smashed up they would
have a better chance, as they might profit by our
course, and if we went through safely, we would be
prepared to pick them up should disaster overtake
them. At last we were ready. The crew of
the Canonita placed themselves where they could carefully
watch our fortunes, and we pulled up the river very
close to the right-hand wall in slack current, for
about a quarter of a mile, when we turned the bow
out and struck for the middle, heading there straight
for the descent. I pulled the bow oars, and my
back was toward the terrific roar which, like the
voice of some awful monster, grew louder as we approached.
It was difficult to refrain from turning round to
see what it looked like now, but as everything depended
on the promptness with which Hillers and I handled
our oars in obedience to Powell’s orders, I
waited for the plunge, every instant ready to execute
a command. We kept in the middle of the stream,
and as we neared the brink our speed began to accelerate.
Then of a sudden there was a dropping away of all support,
a reeling sensation, and we flew down the declivity
with the speed of a locomotive. The gorge was


