[FN#279] These retorts of Judar are exactly what a sharp Egyptian Fellah would say on such occasions.

[FN#280] Arab.  “Salamat,” plur. of Salam, a favourite Egyptian welcome.

[FN#281] This sentence expresses a Moslem idea which greatly puzzles strangers.  Arabic has no equivalent of our “Thank you” (Kassara ’llah Khayr-ak being a mere blessing Allah increase thy weal!), nor can Al-lslam express gratitude save by a periphrase.  The Moslem acknowledges a favour by blessing the donor and by wishing him increase of prosperity.  “May thy shadow never be less! " means, Mayest thou always extend to me thy shelter and protection.  I have noticed this before but it merits repetition.  Strangers, and especially Englishmen, are very positive and very much mistaken upon a point, which all who have to do with Egyptians and Arabs ought thoroughly to understand.  Old dwellers in the East know that the theory of ingratitude in no way interferes with the sense of gratitude innate in man (and beast) and that the “lively sense of favours to come,” is as quick in Orient land as in Europe.

[FN#282] Outside this noble gate, the Bab al-Nay, there is a great cemetery wherein, by the by, lies Burckhardt, my predecessor as a Hajj to Meccah and Al-Medinah.  Hence many beggars are always found squatting in its neighbourhood.

[FN#283] Friends sometimes walk alongside the rider holding the stirrup in sign of affection and respect, especially to the returning pilgrim.

[FN#284] Equivalent to our Alas!  It is woman’s word never used by men; and foreigners must be most careful of this distinction under pain of incurring something worse than ridicule.  I remember an officer in the Bombay Army who, having learned Hindostani from women, always spoke of himself in the feminine and hugely scandalised the Sepoys.

[FN#285] i.e. a neighbour.  The “quarters” of a town in the East are often on the worst of terms.  See Pilgrimage.

[FN#286] In the patriarchal stage of society the mother waits upon her adult sons.  Even in Dalmatia I found, in many old-fashioned houses, the ladies of the family waiting upon the guests.  Very pleasant, but somewhat startling at first.

[FN#287] Here the apodosis would be “We can all sup together.”

[FN#288] Arab.  “Zawiyah” (=oratory), which is to a Masjid what a chapel is to a church.

[FN#289] Arab.  “Kasr,” prop. a palace:  so the Tuscan peasant speaks of his “palazzo.”

[FN#290] This sale of a free-born Moslem was mere felony.  But many centuries later Englishmen used to be sold and sent to the plantations in America.

[FN#291] Arab.  “Kawwas,” lit. an archer, suggesting les archers de la Sainte Hermandade.  In former days it denoted a sergeant, an apparitor, an officer who executed magisterial orders.  In modern Egypt he became a policeman (Pilgrimage i. 29).  As “Cavass” he appears in gorgeous uniform and sword, an orderly attached to public offices and Consulates.