The 2d and 3d of July we stopped at Ailouah.  Hateetah came to my tent the first day with a long face, and said, as I foresaw, that we must all go to Ghat, and abide the pleasure of the Tuaricks; also that we must wait for the return of a caravan from Aheer.  I protested against this latter pretence, and he got up and went off in a pet.  Next morning I sent word to his tent that I could not stay at Ghat an indefinite period; that my means would not allow me; and, therefore, that we must still protest against this arrangement.  He answered, that he would assemble all the notables of Ghat and ask their counsel.  To this I could have no objection, and we are friends again.  But I keep as far from the Tuaricks as I can, and do not visit them.  I find this to be the best policy.  We feed them every night, and they are apparently contented.  The weather continues cool, the wind being always partly from the north.

Many birds, crows and others, pretty large, were seen about the wells of Ailouah; and a rival sportsman to Dr. Overweg appeared in the person of Mohammed et-Tunisee.  He shot three small fowls of Carthage, one of which he gave me, I promising him a little powder in return when we came to Ghat.  We noticed a small black bird with a white throat.  But all through this desert we listen in vain for some songster.  There is no reason for merriment in these dismal solitudes.

Our people have dug a well, which the Tanelkums promise to call “Bir Engleez,”—­the English Well.  Good water was found easily, near the surface at this station.

4th.—­We started late, and made only a short day; but herbage for the camels is only found hereabouts.  Our course was, as usual, south-west over an undulating plateau, with an horizon now near, now distant.  The surface of the ground was for the most part blackened sand, stone pebbles, and some blocks of very bad stone.  The weather continues, fresh and pleasant.  We did not feel the heat until some time after noon; and as we halted early at Ghamoud, suffered nothing.  The wind—­which we notice as if on ship-board—­now comes always from the east, generally with a point north.  It seems to be a sort of trade-wind throughout this portion of the desert.  I begin now to read on the camel’s back, and find this a pleasing relief from the jog-trot monotony of the movement.  I am anxious to read the whole of the Bible in Hebrew on the camel’s back.  Our friends the lizards were still glancing along the ground in the bright sunshine, but in diminished numbers.

Hateetah is always begging, and now asks for burnouses for the Ghat Sheikhs, Khanouhen, Jabour, Berka, and his brother.  He still pretends that the Germans must give him a present, and that he knows no one but the English.  In compliment, and to soothe him, I said, “You must dress in all your fine clothes at Ghat.”  This awakened his vanity, and he seemed delighted with the idea.  His reply was, “You also must one day dress in all your best clothes—­one day—­only one day.”  I replied, “I have no fine clothes;” at which he seemed puzzled.  Turning the conversation, he said I must change all his Tunisian piastres into dollars; which I shall certainly not do.  This Consul of the English is a tremendously grasping fellow.