However, this desolate region has really been of late visited by rain, as we had been told.  We encamped towards evening near a great standing pool, which, if the weather remain moderate, will supply the caravans for months to come.  A shower is a vulgar occurrence in Europe, received by most men, except agriculturists, as an annoyance.  In the desert it has all the value of a heaven-sent gift.  It is shed not periodically; but at intervals of time and place suddenly descends in copious drenchings.  We often came upon spots which had been ploughed up as by a torrent from the skies; and few rocks in the Sahara are without water-marks.  The rain-water at our camping-ground has an excellent flavour, and I drank of it eagerly.

Round this pool we at length found the caravan waiting for us to come up.  The Germans and all others were well, except the Sfaxee, troubled with a little fever.  Mourzuk is a bad place to break down the health and spirits, and those that became faint-hearted there would probably have persevered had they got out into the bracing air of the desert.  The Tuaricks are very quiet.  I sent word to Hateetah that it was impossible for him to take presents from the Germans, as it was contrary to the orders of Government.  Shafou’s son is very mild and circumspect.

Here also was Mohammed Boro, and although I had written strongly to Tripoli about him, I considered it advisable after all, immediately on arriving, to try and make friends with him.  So I paid him a visit, and told him that when the Tuaricks had conducted us to Aheer we should, of course, place ourselves under his protection, that we might proceed to Sakkatou.  I sent him, also, some hamsah and dates.  This gladdened him much, for he is very short of provisions, and has many servants with him; amongst the rest, two or three female slaves, one of whom, a fat, buxom girl, must require prodigious nourishment.

When the pool of Ailouah is not filled by rain-water, recourse is had to a well near at hand, which supplies sufficient quantities.  How important are wells in the desert, and how one learns to mark their existence!

The valley which we have been traversing three days from Sharaba to Ailouah is called Barjouj, and is remarkable for the tholukh-trees, which are scattered here and there throughout its whole extent.  We are now seven days from Ghat, and, about the same distance from Aroukeen; but the Tanelkums, who go slowly, make thirteen days between this and Aroukeen.  They go direct, as we intended to do, without touching at Ghat.  Our movements are not exactly free, but we must not seem to notice this circumstance; and if they insist on our taking the route by the capital, in order to have an opportunity of increased plunder, must give in with as good grace as possible.