“Here,” said our Landlord (for he went with us) “upon this little Spot, were at that juncture seen the two greatest Monarchs in the Universe.  A noble Pavilion was erected in the very middle of it, and in the middle of that was placed a very large oval Table; at which was the Conference, from which the Place receiv’d its Title.  There were two Bridges rais’d; one on the Spanish side, the Passage to which was a little upon a Descent by reason of the Hills adjacent; and the other upon the French side, which as you see, was all upon a Level.  The Musick playing, and Trumpets sounding, the two Kings, upon a Signal agreed upon, set forward at the same time; the Spanish Monarch handing the Infanta his Daughter to the Place of Interview.  As soon as they were enter’d the Pavilion, on each Side, all the Artillery fired, and both Annies after that made their several Vollies.  Then the King of Spain advancing on his side the Table with the Infanta, the King of France advanced at the same Moment on the other; till meeting, he received the Infanta at the Hands of her Father, as his Queen; upon which, both the Artillery and small Arms fir’d as before.  After this, was a most splendid and sumptuous Entertainment; which being over, both Kings retir’d into their several Dominions; the King of France conducting his new Queen to Saint Jean de Luz, where the Marriage was consummated; and the King of Spain returning to Port Passage.”

After a Relation so very inconsistent with the present State of the Place; we took Horse (for Mule-mounting was now out of Fashion) and rode to Saint Jean de Luz, where we found as great a difference in our Eating and Drinking, as we had before done in our Riding.  Here they might be properly call’d Houses of Entertainment; tho’ generally speaking, till we came to this Place, we met with very mean Fare, and were poorly accommodated in the Houses where we lodged.

A Person that travels this way, would be esteem’d a Man of a narrow Curiosity, who should not desire to see the Chamber where Louis le grand took his first Night’s Lodging with his Queen.  Accordingly, when it was put into my Head, out of an Ambition to evince my self a Person of Taste, I asked the Question, and the Favour was granted me, with a great deal of French Civility.  Not that I found any Thing here, more than in the Isle of Conference, but what Tradition only had rendered remarkable.

Saint Jean de Luz is esteem’d one of the greatest Village Towns in all France.  It was in the great Church of this Place, that Lewis XIV according to Marriage Articles, took before the high Altar the Oath of Renunciation to the Crown of Spain, by which all the Issue of that Marriage were debarred Inheritance, if Oaths had been obligatory with Princes.  The Natives here are reckon’d expert Seamen; especially in Whale fishing.  Here is a fine Bridge of Wood; in the middle of which is a Descent, by Steps, into a pretty little Island; where is a Chapel, and a Palace belonging to the Bishop of Bayonne.  Here the Queen Dowager of Spain often walks to divert herself; and on this Bridge, and in the Walks on the Island, I had the Honour to see that Princess more than once.