us, and we found what they came for; and that their Contest, tho’ not so robust as our Oars on the Thames, was much of the same Nature; each contending who should have us for their Fare.  For ’tis here a Custom of Time out of mind, that none but young Women should have the management and profit of that Ferry.  And tho’ the Ferry is over an Arm of the Sea, very broad, and sometimes very rough, those fair Ferriers manage themselves with that Dexterity, that the Passage is very little dangerous, and in calm Weather, very pleasant.  In short, we made choice of those that best pleased us; who in a grateful Return, led us down to their Boat under a sort of Music, which they, walking along, made with their Oars, and which we all thought far from being disagreeable.  Thus were we transported over to Port Passage; not undeservedly accounted the best Harbour in all the Bay of Biscay.

We stay’d not long here after Landing, resolving, if possible, to reach Fonterabia before Night; but all the Expedition we could use, little avail’d; for before we could reach thither the Gates were shut, and good Nature and Humanity were so lock’d up with them, that all the Rhetorick we were Masters of could not prevail upon the Governor to order their being opened; for which Reason we were obliged to take up our Quarters at the Ferry House.

When we got up the next Morning, we found the Waters so broad, as well as rough, that we began to enquire after another Passage; and were answer’d, that at the Isle of Conference, but a short League upwards, the Passage was much shorter, and exposed to less Danger.  Such good Reasons soon determind’s us:  So, setting out we got there in a very little Time; and very soon after were landed in France.  Here we found a House of very good Entertainment, a Thing we had long wanted, and much lamented the want of.

We were hardly well seated in the House before we were made sensible, that it was the Custom, which had made it the business of our Host, to entertain all his Guests at first coming in, with a prolix Account of that remarkable Interview between the two Kings of France and Spain.  I speak safely now, as being got on French Ground:  For the Spaniard in his own Country would have made me to know, that putting Spain after France had there been look’d upon as a meer Solecism in Speech.  However, having refiresh’d our selves, to show our deference to our Host’s Relation, we agreed to pay our Respects to that famous little Isle he mention’d; which indeed, was the whole burden of the Design of our crafty Landlord’s Relation.

When we came there, we found it a little oval Island, over-run with Weeds, and surrounded with Reeds and Rushes.