The University of Kazan is one of the most celebrated institutions of learning in Russia, and has an excellent board of professors.  Special attention is devoted to the Asiatic languages and literature, but no other branch of knowledge is neglected.  I met the Professor of Persian literature, and found him speaking English and French fluently.  I was invited to look through the museum and cabinet attached to the university, but time did not permit.  There is a ladies’ seminary in equally good reputation for its educational facilities.

One morning, about two weeks before my arrival at Kazan, the early risers passing this seminary discovered the body of a young man hanging upon the fence.  It was clad only in a shirt, and no other clothing could be found.  No one recognized the features of the individual, and the occupants of the seminary professed utter ignorance of the affair.  As might be expected, great excitement followed the discovery.  Visits of the sterner sex were absolutely forbidden, and the young maidens in the building were placed under surveillance.  The gentleman who told me the story, said: 

“It is very strange, especially as the public can learn nothing about the young man’s identity.”

While conversing with a high official at Nijne Novgorod, a few days later, I referred to this affair and expressed my surprise that the police could not trace it out.

“That is to say,” he replied, with a shrug of the shoulders, “that the police have suppressed the particulars.  It is a scandalous occurrence that may as well be kept from the public.”

One thing was quite certain:  if the police thought proper to conceal the details of this affair, there was no likelihood of their publication.  In Russia the police exercise a power much greater than in the United States.  Those who have visited France and Austria can form a pretty correct idea of the Russian system, the three countries being nearly alike in this respect.  The police has supervision over the people in a variety of ways; controls the fire department, looks after the general health, and provides for the well-being of society.  Every man, woman, and child is considered under its surveillance, and accounted for by some member of the force.  Passports are examined by the police, and if en regle, the owners are not likely to be troubled.  Taxes are collected, quarrels adjusted, and debts paid through its agency.

Almost everybody has heard of the secret police of Russia, and many questions have been asked me about it.  I cannot throw much light upon it, and if I could it would not be a secret police.  I never knowingly came in contact with the shadow, neither did I have the slightest reason to fear it.  If my letters were opened and read, those familiar with my manuscript will agree that the police had a hard time of it.  If anybody dogged my steps or drew me into conversation to report my opinions at the bureau secret, I never knew it.  The servants who brought my cutlets and tea, the woman who washed my linen, or the dvornik who guarded the door, may have been spies upon me; but, if so, I didn’t see it.  Where ignorance is bliss, ’tis folly to be wise.