A pyramidal monument marks the burial place of the Russians who fell at the capture of the city, and the positions of the besiegers are still pointed out; but I believe no traces of the circumvallation are visible.  The walls of the Tartar fortress form a part of the present Kremlin, but have been so rebuilt and enlarged that their distinctive character is gone.

Nicholas called Kazan the third capital of his empire, and the city is generally admitted first in importance after St. Petersburg and Moscow.  Its position is well chosen on the banks of a small river, the Kazanka, which joins the Volga six versts away.  On a high bluff stretching into a plateau in the rear of the city and frowning defiantly toward the west, its position is a commanding one.  On the edge of this bluff is the Kremlin, with its thick and high walls enclosing the governor’s palace and other public buildings, all overlooked by a lofty bell-tower.  Every part of the city gives evidence of wealth.

The population is about sixty thousand, including, I presume, the military garrison.  There are twelve or fifteen thousand Tartars, who live in a quarter of the city specially assigned them.  They are said to be industrious and peaceful, and some of them have amassed great wealth.  I saw a Tartar merchant at the ball on New Year’s eve, and was told that his fortune was one of the best in Kazan.  I can testify personally to the energy of Tartar peddlers.  On my first morning at the hotel I was visited by itinerant dealers in hats, boots, dressing gowns, and other articles of wear.  The Tartars at Moscow are no less active than their brethren of Kazan, and very shrewd in their dealings.  Every one of them appears to believe that strangers visit Russia for the sole purpose of buying dressing gowns.

I took a drive through the Tartar quarter, or Katai Gorod, of Kazan, and inspected (but did not read) the signs over the shops.  The houses are little different from those in the Russian quarter, and the general appearance of the streets was the same.  I glanced at several female faces in defiance of Mohammedan law, which forbids women unveiling before strangers.  On one occasion when no Tartar men were visible, a young and pretty woman removed her veil and evidently desired to be looked at.  I satisfied my curiosity, and expressed admiration in all the complimentary Russian adjectives I could remember.

As we passed a butcher’s shop, my isvoshchik intimated that horse meat was sold there.  The Tartars are fond of equine flesh, and prefer it to beef.  On the Kirghese steppes the horse is prominent in gastronomic festivities.

Kazan is famous throughout Russia for the extent and variety of its manufactures.  Russians and Tartars are alike engaged in them, and the products of their industry bear a good reputation.  The city has printing establishments on an extensive scale, one of them devoted to Tartar literature.  Several editions of the Koran have been printed here for the faithful in Northern and Central Asia.