stuck in the snow.  By good luck we managed to arrive at Kazan about 2 A. M. On reaching the hotel, we were confronted by what I thought a snow statue, but which proved to be the dvornik, or watchman.  Our baggage was taken up stairs, while we shook the snow from our furs.  The samovar shortened our visages and filled our stomachs with tea.  We retired to rest upon sofas and did not rise until a late hour.

It happened to be New Year’s, and the fashionable society of Kazan was doing its congratulations.  I drove through the principal part of the city and found an animated scene.  Numberless and numbered droskies were darting through the streets, carrying gayly dressed officers making their ceremonious calls.  Soldiers were parading with bands of music, and the lower classes were out in large numbers.  The storm had ceased, the weather was warm, and everything was propitious for out-door exercise.

The soldiers were the first I had seen since entering Europe, and impressed me favorably with the Russian army.  They wore grey uniforms, like those I saw in Siberia, and marched with a regular and steady stride.  It was not till I had reached St. Petersburg that I saw the elite of the Emperor’s military forces.  The reforms of Alexander have not left the army untouched.  Great improvements have been made in the last twelve or fifteen years.  More attention has been paid to the private soldiers than heretofore, their pay being increased and time of service lessened.  The Imperial family preserves its military character, and the present Emperor allows no laxity of discipline in his efforts to elevate the men in the ranks.

It is said of the grand duke Michel, uncle of Alexander II., that he was a most rigid disciplinarian.  His great delight was in parades, and he never overlooked the least irregularity.  Not a button, not a moustache even, escaped his notice, and whoever was not en regle was certain to be punished.  He is reported to have said,—­

“I detest war.  It breaks the ranks, deranges the soldiers, and soils their uniforms."[F]

[Footnote F:  The land forces of Russia are formed of two descriptions of troops—­the regular troops properly so called, and the feudal militia of the Cossacks and similar tribes.

The regular army is recruited from the classes of peasants and artisans partly and principally by means of a conscription, partly by the adoption of the sons of soldiers, and partly by voluntary enlistment.  Every individual belonging to these classes is, with a few exceptions, liable to compulsory service, provided he be of the proper age and stature.  The nominal strength of the Russian army, according to the returns of the ministry of War, is as follows: