“Not all at once did pantaloons gain the supremacy as the nether garment.  About the beginning of the present century they grew rapidly in favor with the young; but men past middle age were more slow to adopt the change.  Then, last, the aged very gradually were converted to the fashion by the plea of convenience and comfort; so that about the close of the first quarter of the present century it became almost universal.  In another particular, more than half a century ago, the sons adopted a custom of their wiser fathers.  The young men had for several years worn shoes and boots shaped in the toe part to a point, called peaked toes, while the aged adhered to the shape similar to the present fashion; so that the shoemaker, in a doubtful case, would ask his customer whether he would have square-toed or peaked-toed.  The distinction between young and old in this fashion was so general, that sometimes a graceless youth, who had been crossed by his father or guardian in some of his unreasonable humors, would speak of him with the title of Old Square-toes.

“Boots with yellow tops inverted, and coming up to the knee-band, were commonly worn by men somewhat advanced in years; but the younger portion more generally wore half-boots, as they were called, made of elastic leather, cordovan.  These, when worn, left a space of two or three inches between the top of the boot and the knee-band.  The great beauty of this fashion, as it was deemed by many, consisted in restoring the boots, which were stretched by drawing them on, to shape, and bringing them as nearly as possible into contact with the legs; and he who prided himself most on the form of his lower limbs would work the hardest in pressure on the leather from the ankle upward in order to do this most effectually.”—­Vol.  I. pp. 318-320.

In 1822 was passed the “Law of Harvard University, regulating the dress of the students.”  The established uniform was as follows.  “The coat of black-mixed, single-breasted, with a rolling cape, square at the end, and with pocket flaps; waist reaching to the natural waist, with lapels of the same length; skirts reaching to the bend of the knee; three crow’s-feet, made of black-silk cord, on the lower part of the sleeve of a Senior, two on that of a Junior, and one on that of a Sophomore.  The waistcoat of black-mixed or of black; or when of cotton or linen fabric, of white, single-breasted, with a standing collar.  The pantaloons of black-mixed or of black bombazette, or when of cotton or linen fabric, of white.  The surtout or great coat of black-mixed, with not more than two capes.  The buttons of the above dress must be flat, covered with the same cloth as that of the garments, not more than eight nor less than six on the front of the coat, and four behind.  A surtout or outside garment is not to be substituted for the coat.  But the students are permitted to wear black gowns, in which they may appear on all public occasions.  Night-gowns, of cotton or linen or silk fabric, made in the usual form, or in that of a frock coat, may be worn, except on the Sabbath, on exhibition and other occasions when an undress would be improper.  The neckcloths must be plain black or plain white.”