“The bosoms of our shirts were ruffled with
lawn or cambric, and ‘Our fingers’ ends
were seen to peep
From ruffles, full five inches deep.’
Our coats were double-breasted, and of a black or
priest-gray color. The directions were not so
particular respecting our waistcoats, breeches,—I
beg pardon,—small clothes, and stockings.
Our shoes ran to a point at the distance of two or
three inches from the extremity of the foot, and turned
upward, like the curve of a skate. Our dress
was ornamented with shining stock, knee, and shoe
buckles, the last embracing at least one half of the
foot of ordinary dimensions. If any wore boots,
they were made to set as closely to the leg as its
skin; for a handsome calf and ankle were esteemed
as great beauties as any portion of the frame, or
point in the physiognomy.”—Vol.
III. pp. 238, 239.
In his late work, entitled, “Memories of Youth and Manhood,” Professor Sidney Willard has given an entertaining description of the style of dress which was in vogue at Harvard College near the close of the last century, in the following words:—
“Except on special occasions, which required more than ordinary attention to dress, the students, when I was an undergraduate, were generally very careless in this particular. They were obliged by the College laws to wear coats of blue-gray; but as a substitute in warm weather, they were allowed to wear gowns, except on public occasions; and on these occasions they were permitted to wear black gowns. Seldom, however, did any one avail himself of this permission. In summer long gowns of calico or gingham were the covering that distinguished the collegian, not only about the College grounds, but in all parts of the village. Still worse, when the season no longer tolerated this thin outer garment, many adopted one much in the same shape, made of colorless woollen stuff called lambskin. These were worn by many without any under-coat in temperate weather, and in some cases for a length of time in which they had become sadly soiled. In other respects there was nothing peculiar in the common dress of the young men and boys of College to distinguish it from that of others of the same age. Breeches were generally worn, buttoned at the knees, and tied or buckled a little below; not so convenient a garment for a person dressing in haste as trousers or pantaloons. Often did I see a fellow-student hurrying to the Chapel to escape tardiness at morning prayers, with this garment unbuttoned at the knees, the ribbons dangling over his legs, the hose refusing to keep their elevation, and the calico or woollen gown wrapped about him, ill concealing his dishabille.


