Make the nozzle by taking a piece of 1/2-in. galvanized pipe 3-1/2 in. long and filling it with babbitt metal; then drill a 3/16-in. hole through its center.  Make this hole conical, tapering from 3/16 in. to a full 1/2 in.  This is best done by using a square taper reamer.  Then place the nozzle in the position shown in Fig. 1, which allows the stream of water to strike the buckets full in the center when they reach the position farthest to the right.  Take the side pieces, GG, and drill a 1-in. hole through their sides centrally, and a 1/4-in. hole from the tops to the 1-in. holes.  Fasten them in their proper position, with the wheel and shaft in place, the shaft projecting through the holes just mentioned.  Now block the wheel; that is, fasten it by means of wedges or blocks of wood until the shaft is exactly in the center of the inch holes in the side pieces.  Cut four disks of cardboard to slip over the shaft and large enough to cover the inch holes.  Two of these are to be inside and two outside of the frames (one to bear against each side of each crosspiece).  Fasten these to the crosspieces by means of tacks to hold them securely.  Pour melted babbitt metal into the 1/4-in. hole to form the bearings.  When it has cooled, remove the cardboard, take down the crosspieces, and drill a 1/8-in. hole from the top of the crosspieces through the babbitt for an oil-hole.

Secure sufficient sheet zinc to cover the sides of the frame.  Cut the zinc to the same shape as the frame and let it extend down to the crosspieces Ee.  Tack one side on. (It is well to tack strips of heavy cloth—­burlap will do—­along the edges under the zinc to form a water-tight joint.) Fasten the crosspiece over the zinc in its proper position.  Drill a hole through the zinc, using the hole in the crosspiece as a guide.  Then put the wheel in a central position in the frame, tack the other side piece of zinc in place and put the other crosspiece in place.  Place the two collars mentioned before on the shaft, and fasten so as to bear against the crosspieces, in order to prevent the wheel and shaft from moving sidewise.  If the bearings are now oiled, the shaft should turn easily and smoothly.  Fasten a pulley 4 or 6 in. in diameter to the longest arm of the shaft.

Connect the nozzle to a water faucet by means of a piece of hose; place the outlet over a drain, and belt the motor direct to the washing-machine, sewing machine, ice-cream freezer, drill press, dynamo or any other machinery requiring not more than 1/2 hp.

This motor has been in use in our house for two years in all of the above ways, and has never once failed to give perfect satisfaction.  It is obvious that, had the wheel and paddles been made of brass, it would be more durable, but as it would have cost several times as much, it is a question whether it would be more economical in the end.  If sheet-iron is used, a coat of heavy paint would prevent rust and therefore prolong the life of the motor.  The motor will soon pay for itself in the saving of laundry bills.  We used to spend $1 a month to have just my husband’s overalls done at the laundry, but now I put them in the machine, start the motor, and leave them for an hour or so.  At the end of this time they are perfectly clean, and I have noticed that they wear twice as long as when I sent them to the laundry.