[Illustration:  Fig. 7 to 10]

for making these stands, as every part is bent as described in connection with the bending forms, and the portions are simply riveted at the different junctures.  Both iron and copper rivets are used as at I, in Fig. 9, a cross sectional view.

The best way is to bore straight through both pieces and insert the rivet.  In some cases the rivet is headed up in the bore and again washers are used and the heading effected on the washer.  Copper rivets are soft and easily handled, but are costly as compared with iron rivets.

Good prices are obtained for the guards for open fireplaces made in many varieties in these days.  The return of the open fireplace in modern houses has created a demand for these guards and in Fig. 10 we show a design for one of them.  The posts are made

[Illustration:  Fig. 11 to 15]

sufficiently stiff by uniting two sides with rivets.  The ends at top are looped as shown, while the ends or butts at the base are opened out to make the feet.  Rings are shaped on forms and are then riveted to the base cross-piece as illustrated.  Crosses are made to describe to central design and the plan is worked out quite readily with the different shapes.

The making of metal fire grate fronts has proven to be a very interesting and profitable occupation for boys in recent times.  Not long ago it was sufficient for the ingenious youth to turn out juvenile windmills, toy houses and various little knickknacks for amusement.  The modern lad wants more than this.  He desires to turn some of his product into cash.  Therefore we present some of the patterns of fire grates which boys have made and can make again from scrap iron, with few tools and devices, and find a ready market for the same as soon as they are made.  Figure 11 is a sketch of a form of fire grate bar or front that is constructed with a series of circles of strip metal.  The best way is to go to the hardware store or iron dealer’s and buy a quantity of 1/4-in., 1/2-in., and 3/4-in. iron, about 1/8 to 3/16 in. thick.  In fact 1/16-in. metal would do in many cases where the parts are worked out small in size.  The 1/8-in. metal is very strong.  Then after getting the supply of strip metal in stock, procure the usual type of metal worker’s hammer, a cheap anvil, a 9-1b. vise, a cold chisel, a file or two, and a round piece of shaft iron, about 3 in. diameter and 2 to 3 ft. long.  This piece of iron is represented at B, Fig. 12.

The iron is held in position by means of the straps of metal C, C, which are bent over the shaft tightly and grip the board base with set or lag screws as shown.  The wooden base should be about 2 in. thick and large enough to make a good support for the iron shaft.  The process of bending the rings in this way is as shown.  The piece of strip iron is grasped at D. Then with the hammer the iron is gradually worked cold about the mandrel as at E until