I have been at the theatre and witnessed the representation of a tragedy called Die Schuld, written by Adolphus Muellner.  It is a most interesting piece, and the novelty of it has made a striking impression on me.  It is written in the eight-footed trochaic metre, similar to that in which the Spanish tragedies are written.  It hinges on a prophecy made by a Gipsey, in which the person to whom the prophecy is made, in endeavoring to avert it, hastens its accomplishment.  The piece is full of interest and the versification harmonious.  I have been twice at the Italian opera, where I saw the Gazza Ladra and Il Matrimonio secreto.  I came here with the idea of giving myself up entirely to the study of the German language; but such is the beauty of the country environing Dresden that, though winter has commenced I employ the greatest part of the day in long walks.  For instance I have been to Pillnitz, which is on the right bank of the Elbe about seven miles from Dresden, ascending the river.  The road is on the bank of the river the whole way.  The Palace at Pillnitz is vast and well built.  During a part of the year the Royal family reside there.  Pillnitz will remain “damn’d to everlasting fame” as the place where the famous treaty was signed, the object of which was to put down the French Revolution, which Mr Pitt and the British ministry knew of and sanctioned, tho’ they pretended ignorance of it and professed to have no desire to interfere with the affairs of France.

Every thing pleases me at Dresden except the beds.  I wish it were the fashion to use blankets and edredons for the upper covering instead of the lits de plumes; for they are too heavy and promote rather too intense a perspiration, and if you become impatient of the heat, and throw them off you catch an intense cold.  You know how partial I am to the Germans, and can even put up with their eternal smoking, tho’ no smoker myself, but to their beds I shall never be reconciled.  A German bed is as follows:  a paillasse, over that a mattress, then a featherbed with a sheet fastened to it, and over that again another featherbed with a sheet fastened to it; and thus you lie between two featherbeds; but these are not always of sufficient length, and you are often obliged to coil up your legs or be exposed to have them frozen by their extending beyond the featherbeds; for the cold is very great during the winter.

The more I see of the people here, the more I like them.  The national character of the Germans is integrity, tho’ sometimes cloaked under a rough exterior as in Bavaria and Austria; but here in Saxony it is combined with a suavity of manners that is very striking, for the Saxons are the Tuscans of Germany in point of politeness, and they are far more accomplished because they take more pains in cultivating their minds.