Excellent hams and sausages are to be had here; and the Viennese who dines and sups heartily at his own house never fails, during his evening promenade, to take a tolerable good portion of ham or sausage, with a proportion of Offen wine or Maylander Beer, by way of staying his stomach during the tedious interval between dinner and supper.  I need scarce add that smoking is universal, as indeed it is all over Germany, for I scarcely ever see a German without a pipe either in his mouth or fastened to his coat and a bag or pouch of tobacco either in his pocket or attached to his button hole.  In the Prater dances often take place in the open air between the grisettes of Vienna, who are in general handsome and well made, and who dress well, and their lovers and admirers.  The Prater was first opened to the public by the Emperor Joseph II.  The Au-garten is another place of recreation and amusement, but on a smaller and much more tranquil and sober scale, than the Prater.  None of the lower classes think of coming here, tho’ it is open to every body decently dressed:  there is not that profuse eating and drinking going forward.  It is more properly speaking a promenade, and forms a garden with alleys of trees where music is often performed and there is a superb saloon where refreshments may be had.  The Au-garten is frequented chiefly by the Noblesse and Haute Bourgeoisie.  In the morning likewise it is a fashionable resort to drink the mineral waters.  It adjoins the Prater, being on the same island.  It was the favourite lounge of Joseph II, who opened it to the public by affixing this inscription on one of the gates: 

  Allen Menschen gewidmete Erlustigung von ihrem Schaetzer

  “Place of recreation open to all Men by their esteemer.”

VIENNA, Aug. 13th.

There are a great number of theatres at Vienna.  Two are situated in the old town, viz., the Hof-theater and the Burg-theater.  The Hof-theater is only open when the Court are at Vienna, and they are now at Baden, ten leagues distant.  The Burg-theater is open all the year round, and may be considered as the national theatre.  It is much frequented by the bourgeoisie and inhabitants of the old town, who do not chuse to take the trouble to go to the Wieden-theater, which is situated in the faubourgs, and which is more of a classical and fashionable theatre than the other, inasmuch as it is more elegantly and classically built, better fitted up, and has a far better company of comedians.  At the Burgtheater I saw Kotzebue’s Edelsinn und Armuth performed.  The Wieden theatre which is, as I have said, in the faubourgs, is the handsomest theatre perhaps in Europe for its size.  It is not large, but it is fitted up with so much taste and you see and hear so well; every ornament is so chaste and there is nothing at all tawdry or superfluous.  It is,