and their buildings, both public and private, excellent
in their way and in the best state. The streets
of the faubourgs are broad but not paved. The
most celebrated of these faubourgs are Maria Huelf,
Leopold-stadt, Landstrasse, the Rennweg,
the Wuehringer Gasse; and I am persuaded that
if the old town were united to the faubourg by means
of streets and squares and the esplanade filled up
with buildings, Vienna would perhaps be the handsomest
city in Europe and the fourth in size, for the best
buildings and palaces are in the faubourgs, viz.,
the Military College, the Polytechnic School, St Charles’
Church, the Porcelain fabric, the Palaces of Esterhazy,
Kaunitz, Stahremberg, Schwarzenberg, Palfy, and the
beautiful Palace and ground of Belvedere in which last
is a noble collection of pictures open to the public.
At the Polytechnic school one of the principal professors
is a friend of Mr F------’s, and he explained
to us the nature of the establishment and the course
of studies pursued. The apparatus for every branch
of science is on the grandest scale. After dinner
we repaired to the Prater, crossing a branch
of the Danube which here forms several islands.
The Prater requires and deserves particular
mention. Part of it is something in the style
of the Champs Elysees at Paris, and it is fully
equal to it in the variety of amusements and enjoyments
to be met with there; but it is far larger and more
beautiful on account of its landscape and the diversified
manner in which the grounds are laid out. The
Prater, then, is an immense park, laid out
on an island of considerable extent on the Danube.
The nearest faubourg to it is the Leopoldstadt,
which is also the most fashionable one, and a bridge
conducts you from that faubourg direct into the Prater.
The Prater presents a mixture of garden, meadow,
upland and forest; the lofty trees arranged in avenues
or in clumps give a delightful protecting shade.
On the road destined for the carriages there is every
afternoon a most brilliant display of carriages.
Another avenue is destined for equestrians, and two
avenues, one on each side of these two, for pedestrians.
There are besides winding footpaths, that conduct
you all over this vast extent of ground, and circular
grass plots surrounded by trees where the pedestrian
may repose and eat and drink if he will. Here
are restaurants in plenty, cafes, Panoramas,
exhibitions of wild beasts, swings, tennis courts,
places for running at the ring, do for burlesque dramatic
performances, farceurs, jugglers, De Bach’s
Equestrian Amphitheatre in the style of Franconi,
Salles de Danse, baths, billiard rooms, gaming
tables, and even houses appropriated to gallantry.
In fact, the Prater is quite the Paradise of
the bourgeoisie of Vienna, who are fond of the pleasures
of the table and take every opportunity of making
dinner and supper parties. The bourgeois of Vienna
are far more sensual than spiritual and not at all
disposed to self-denial.


