[Illustration]

The effect from the main gallery is perhaps best, and the smaller ones running along the sides have a weird and aged appearance.  Near the entrance to the church, low down, is shown what was once the door for that wretched race of beings, the “Cagots.”

[Footnote:  We found it difficult to obtain any reliable information about these creatures.  They seem to have led an existence like the lepers in Palestine, being avoided and despised by the inhabitants generally, and they appear to have been both diminutive and ugly.(See St. Savin, p. 73).]

The Chapelle de St. Roch, which we passed into from the gallery in the main building, is the most striking of the two.  The gallery and stairs were in a very shaky condition, and two candle-stands near the latter seemed to have been in their prime many generations ago.  The vaulted roof, with the curious wooden groins, and the ancient benitier near the door, are worthy of inspection.  Without scrambling up the tower to the “Pyrenean Museum,” but not forgetting to examine the old bell-tower and its bells facing west, we walked down to the left and joined the main road.

The ancient Castle de Sainte Marie—­a very interesting and historic ruin—­being in the vicinity, we followed the principal highway to the right, and passing the much-recommended Hotel de l’Univers, were soon in the proximity of the chateau, which, standing alone on the summit of a pointed hill, was charmingly conspicuous.  The path, after winding up the hill, leads to an entrance at the back, which is locked, the castle being now the property of the Precepteur of Luz, who, however, is always willing to accommodate strangers by allowing them to enter, as well as to inspect his garden, and the very striking image of the Virgin which he has had perched on the front walls.  A great number of jackdaws have taken up their quarters in the old towers, and as one of them kept continually cawing as though anxious to be heard, we append what we made out to be the meaning of his chatter (it is said they never speak without cause), which we call

“THE JACKDAW’S CAUSERIE.”

“THE JACKDAW’S CAUSERIE.”

Caw, caw! cried the jackdaw, and cawed again,
As he circled out of the ancient tower: 
Caw, caw! and he circled thrice over the plain,
And cawed once more as he reached his bower.

Caw, caw!  I was born in this fortress old,
As old as the hills, some folks might say;
Five hundred centuries, caw, have rolled
Since first it stood in the light of day.

Caw, caw! just to think I have built my nest
Where the Black Prince ruled in such royal state. 
Caw, caw!  I wonder if ever he guess’d
That this would in time be his castle’s fate.

Caw, caw! but I never could quite perceive
Why one tower is round and the other square. 
If I’d been the prince, I can well believe
I’d have made the architect build a pair.