An enthusiast might easily write a book on the beauty of this gorge alone, but in this age he would probably find few readers; of those who did look at his book the greater number would find it probably too highly-coloured, while the more enthusiastic ones would lament its lack of warmth.  Not wishing to incur the displeasure of either, we refrain from saying a great deal about the splendour of this drive; knowing that to a lover of the beautiful in Nature, all we have left unsaid Nature will herself say ten times more impressively.

After passing the monument in honour of the “Reine Hortense,” which is five miles from Pierrefitte, and crossing the Bridge de la Hiladere, we soon caught sight of some villages on the left, where poplars—­stiffly prominent in all directions—­spoil much of the picturesqueness of the surroundings.  The villages of Sere and Esquiez, that we saw when nearing Luz, are ancient and worthy of a visit.  Together they formed a “chef-lieu” before the eleventh century, and the Roman church in each, but especially that of Sere, is exceedingly interesting.  A few moments, during which we crossed a marble bridge over the Gave de Bastan, and, bearing to the left, we were in Luz.

Denominated by various titles, from a “poor village” to a “small rustic town,” Luz is by no means an insignificant place.  It doubtless owes a great deal to its situation in a pleasant hollow among the hills, with a pleasant landscape on all sides, and its appearance is certainly more quaint and rustic than poor.  Undoubtedly there are several old houses, some looking particularly unsafe; undoubtedly the streets are often very narrow; and perhaps the inhabitants on the whole may be far from wealthy; but with all this Luz is not a poor looking village.  On a market-day the streets in the vicinity of the old church, built—­partly in the 12th and finished between the 15th and 16th centuries—­by the Templars, assume a wonderfully gay appearance, and towards the back of the church we noticed one old house whose balconies, if a trifle warped and weather-beaten under the thin covering of white paint, were nevertheless bright with pots of geraniums, wallflowers, and stocks.

The church itself is most interesting, and was at one time very formidable also.  Surrounded by a high wall pierced with loopholes in a double row, lies the graveyard, which is only a narrow strip between the ramparts and the church, the body of which lies between two towers.  Under the higher of these, facing north, and built for defence with loopholes and embrasures, is one of the church doors, which leads to the high altar steps in a direct line from the entrance into the churchyard.  Further to the right, but also facing north, is the most remarkable entrance, the inscriptions on the arch dating from the 12th century.  On the extreme right is a door leading into the chapel, built in the 16th century, and dedicated to St. Roch.  We found the inside interesting, without possessing any very striking features.