The course, which is some two miles from the town on the Bordeaux road, is overlooked by an imposing grand stand, which generally seems well filled, though the betting is not very heavy on the whole.  We drove over one afternoon, and after waiting for three events which to us were not very exciting, proceeded towards Lescar.  The nearest way would have been by turning to the right by a white house on the Bordeaux road (not far from the race-course), but we continued along it instead for some distance, finally turning off down a narrow lane without any sign of a hedge.  After following this for a length of time, we took the road at right angles leading between fields covered with gorse, and later, descending one or two steep hills with trees on either side, we reascended and entered the ancient town of Lescar, only to dip under the tottering walls of the ancient castle—­a few minutes later—­and mount again under a narrow archway to the church.

P. Joanne in his excellent guide-book calls it “the ancient Beneharum, destroyed about the year 841 by the Normans, rebuilt in 980 under the name of Lascurris.  In the old chronicles it was called the ‘Ville Septenaire,’ because it possessed, it is said, seven churches, seven fountains, seven mills, seven woods, seven vineyards, seven gates and seven towers on the ramparts.”  The church now restored was formerly a cathedral, and there are some fine old mosaics (11th century) to be seen under the boarding near the altar.  Jeanne d’Albret and other Bearnais sovereigns are buried there.

The Castle is very old, though the square tower dates from the 14th century only.

The whole town, so curious and ancient-looking, is well worth a visit, and forms a contrast in its fallen splendour to Pau’s rising greatness, such as cannot fail to strike any intelligent observer.

Passing through the town, we took the road to the right homewards, which joins the Bayonne route, but instead of continuing along the latter all the way, we branched off into the route de Billeres, and came by the Villa Lacroix and the Hotel de Londres back to the pension.

Another road leads from the Villa Lacroix over a brook, and past the establishment of the “Petites Soeurs des Pauvres” into the country, and in fact to Lescar.  The brook is known as the Herrere, and by following the path to the left which runs beside it, the “Fontaine de Marnieres” is reached.  The water of this fountain is considered very pure and strengthening, and many people drink it daily.

The band is another attraction at Pau; twice a week in the afternoon they play in the Place Royale, and twice in the Parc Beaumont.  The music is of a very good order, and excessively pleasing to listen to from beneath the shade of the trees.  The Parc Beaumont is quite near the Place Royale, the principal entrance being at the end of the Rue du Lycee, close to the Hotel Beau Sejour.

Balloon ascents were often the chief attraction on Sundays, which “all the world and his wife” went out to see.  There is a casino in the Park, used occasionally for concerts, but the casino is behind the Hotel Gassion, and though it was hardly finished enough for comfort when we saw it, that defect will soon doubtless be remedied.