Leaving the courtyard by the road under the side arches that leads to the terrace, the tasteful gardening of the surroundings is noticeable, and as soon as the lower walk is reached, the “Tour de la Monnaie” lies in full view below.  No efforts are made to keep these ruins, in which Calvin used to preach, from crumbling into dust. "O tempora!  O mores!"

From the terrace on the other side of the Castle, the remains of the old fosse may be seen, though houses are now built where the water used to lie.  A broad pathway encircles the edifice, and a bridge leads from the extreme end over the Rue Marca into the Castle Park, called also “lower plantation” (basse plante) in distinction from the “upper plantation” (haute plante), which surrounds the barracks.  Near the road the trees are planted stiffly in rows, but when another and smaller bridge has been traversed, the beauty of the Park is manifest.

[Illustration:  IN THE CASTLE PARK.]

Following the course of the river, and filled with the finest trees and shrubs, through which the beautiful little nuthatch may occasionally be seen flying, and among which many other birds sing—­it is indeed, with its long cool walks and pleasant glades, a lovely promenade.  The Bayonne road is the boundary on the opposite side from the river, and just beyond the limits of the Park a path branches off river-wards to the Billeres Plains, where tennis and golf are played.  In the opposite direction another leads up under the shadow of an old church, and joins the Route de Billeres, which, starting from the Bordeaux road, passes the Villa Lacroix and other handsome houses, and descending throws off another branch into the Bayonne road.  It then curves in an opposite direction, and ascends, while at the same time skirting the grounds of the Chateau de Billeres, to the favourite Billeres woods.  From the woods it communicates in a nearly straight line with the Bordeaux road again, so that in reality it describes three-quarters of a circle.

These woods, though sadly disfigured by the demand for fire-wood, are pleasant to ramble in when the soldiers are not in possession, and there are drives through them in all directions.  At one time wild duck, pigeons, and woodcock were plentiful there, but that time has passed, though the gallant French sportsmen may still be seen trooping through with their dogs after blackbirds and tomtits!

Pau dearly loves excitement.  Three times a week in the winter the hounds meet in the vicinity, and many are the carriages and many the fair occupants that congregate to see the start.  It is generally a very gay scene, with no lack of scarlet coats and good steeds, pretty dresses and sometimes pretty faces too; and though afterwards they enjoy many a good run, there are but few falls and fewer broken heads.  But it is over the races that Pau gets really excited.  Hunting only attracts the well-to-do, but all who can hire or borrow even a shandry make a point of not missing the “races.”  And these meetings are not few and far between, but about once a fortnight, for there is no “Jockey Club” at Pau, and consequently it pleases itself about the fixtures.