Who is Major E.F. Norton from The Crystal Horizon Everest-the First Solo Ascent and what is their importance?

Major E.F. Norton was another key climber during the British expeditions of the 1920s. He took over leadership of the third expedition after General Bruce fell ill with malaria on the approach march and fell out of the party. Major Norton reached 8,750 meters without artificial oxygen on that third attempt in 1924, which remained a height record without oxygen until 1978.