“rock cities” of Bashan, tell us that everything about them is of stone-doors, gates, windows, stairs, rafters, galleries, cupboards, benches, and even candlesticks.  So perfectly preserved are some of these “dead cities,” that of one, Salcah, Doctor Porter says that some five hundred of the houses are still standing, and that “from three hundred to four hundred families might settle in it at any moment without laying a stone or expending an hour’s labor on repairs.”  Of Beth-gamul another traveler says in part:  “The houses were some of them very large, consisting usually of three rooms on the ground floor, and two on the first story, the stairs being formed of large stones built in the house walls, and leading up outside.  The doors were, as usual, of stone; sometimes folding doors, and some of them highly ornamental.  I wandered about quite alone in the old streets of the town—­entered one by one the old houses, went up-stairs, visited the rooms, and, in short, made a careful examination of the whole place; but so perfect was every street, every house, every room, that I almost fancied I was in a dream, wandering alone in this city of the dead, seeing all perfect, yet not hearing a sound.  “Much of the work in most of these cities is on such a large scale as to indicate that the houses were built by, and intended for a race of giants.  When we think of these fortresses of strength defended by their mighty occupants, and remember that they were probably in existence at the time of the exodus of the Israelites from Egyptian bondage, the victories of Moses gained here become sublime.

We are nearing Mezarib.  All forenoon has been consumed in covering a distance of only about fifty miles.  But by twelve o’clock we have passed almost completely across the land where Og was king, especially that part of his kingdom which, not long after being wrested from him and his giant followers, was assigned to the eastern half-tribe of Manasseh for a permanent possession.

Before leaving Beyrout my dragoman telegraphed to Jerusalem for a muleteer and three horses to be sent to this railroad terminus.  Must we be disappointed in this!  We are both solicitous.  My guide is leaning far out of the car window long before the train stops to learn, if possible, whether or not his order has been obeyed.  I watch that dark, anxious, perplexed face with much solicitude.  Ah, he smiles!  The sunshine of satisfaction chases the clouds of anxiety and doubt from his countenance, and that dark face looks beautiful to me.  He is happy, and I share in his happiness.  Our muleteer and horses are awaiting us.

“Among Bedouins”

CHAPTER III.