CHAPTER IV.

Argeles.

Road v. rail—­Scenes, sublime and ridiculous—­Hotel d’Angleterre—­Questions and “The Argeles Shepherd’s Reply”—­A forbidden path—­The ride to Ges, Serres, Salluz, and Ourous—­Argeles church—­Route Thermale—­Ges—­The tree in the path—­“A regular fix”—­Serres—­“It’s a stupid foal that doesn’t know its own mother” —­A frothing stream—­A fine view—­Pigs in clover—­Salluz —­Ourous—­Contented villagers—­The high road—­The bridge on the Pierrefitte road—­Advice to sketchers—­“Spring’s Bitters and Sweets”—­The “witch of the hills”—­Large green lizards—­“Jeannette’s Lamb”—­Round the Argeles valley—­Chateau de Beaucens—­Villelongue—­ Soulom—­The old church—­Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte—­St. Savin—­The verger and the ancient church—­Cagots—­“The Organ’s Tale”—­St. Savin’s tomb—­The Chateau de Miramont—­Jugged Izard—­Market-day—­Sour bread and the remedy—­Arrival of the first parcel.

CHAPTER V.

Cauterets.

Hotel de la Poste, Pierrefitte—­The Gorge—­Its majestic beauty—­The resemblance to the Llanberis Pass—­Mrs. Blunt becomes poetical—­Zinc mines—­Le Pont de Mediabat—­Entering the town—­The Rue Richelieu and Hotel du Parc—­Winter’s seal upon them still—­Thermes des Oeufs—­Thermes de Cesar—­The Casino and Esplanade des Oeufs—­A good dinner and the menu—­The start for the Col de Riou—­The Grange de la Reine Hortense—­The pines—­Miss Blunt’s “Exhortation to the First Snow”—­The dogs and their gambols—­Defeated, but not discouraged—­To the Cerizey Cascade—­The baths of La Raillere, Petit St. Sauveur, and Le Pre—­Cascade de Lutour—­The Marcadau Gorge—­Scenery—­Pic de Gaube—­At the Cerizey Cascade—­The Pont d’Espagne and Lac de Gaube—­Pont de Benques—­Lutour valley—­Various excursions up same—­The “Parc”—­Allees de Cambasque—­The Peguere—­The “Pagoda” villa—­ Promenade du Mamelon Vert—­The road’s up again—­Blows and blasts—­The bishop’s arrival—­Enthusiasm, pomposity, and benedictions—­The pilgrims at large—­They start on an excursion—­The market and Hotel de Ville—­The grocer’s opinion—­Pyrenean dogs and their treatment—­The dog-fancier—­Smiles and temper—­Bargaining displaced—­No dog after all!

CHAPTER VI.

Luz and Bareges.

Rain at starting—­A blighted view, yet lovely still—­Pont d’Enfer—­Nature’s voice—­Sere and Esquiez—­Luz—­Its situation and status—­An old house—­The ancient church of the Templars—­La Chapelle de St. Roch—­Pyrenean museum—­Hotel de l’Univers—­Chateau de Ste. Marie—­“The Jackdaw’s Causerie”—­A new “diet of worms”—­The new bathing establishment—­To Bareges—­Pic d’Ayre—­Esterre—­Viella —­Betpouey—­Mill conduits—­Cercle des Etrangers—­Opinion of the town—­Grand Etablissement—­Promenade Horizontale—­Hospice de Ste. Eugenie—­“The Jay of Bareges”—­Wood anemones—­Hepaticas—­Valley of Lienz—­Pic de Lienz—­Pic d’Ayre’s summit—­Pic de Neouville—­Mountain rhododendrons—­Anemone vernalis