CHAPTER I.

Pau.

Trains and steamers—­Bordeaux and its hotels—­Lamothe —­Morcenx—­Dax—­Puyoo—­Orthez—­First impressions of Pau—­The hotels and pensions—­Amusements—­Pension Colbert—­Making up parties for the Pyrenees—­The Place Royale and the view—­The castle of Pau and its approaches—­Origin of name—­Historical notes—­The towers—­Visiting hours—­The tapestries—­The wonderful bedstead—­The delusive tortoiseshell cradle—­The “Tour de la Monnaie”—­The park—­The Billeres plains—­Tennis and golf—­The Route de Billeres and the Billeres woods—­French sportsmen—­Hunting—­Racing—­Lescar and its old cathedral—­Fontaine de Marnieres—­The bands—­The Parc Beaumont —­Ballooning—­The Casino—­Polo—­The cemetery—­The churches of St. Martin and St. Jacques—­The “old world and the new”—­Rides and drives—­to Betharram—­The start—­Peasants and their ways—­Vines trained by the roadside—­Sour grapes—­The “March of the Men of Garlic” —­Coarraze—­Henry IV.’s Castle—­Betharram—­The ivied bridge—­The inn—­The “Via Crucis”—­Assat and Gelos—­The Coteaux—­Perpignaa —­Sketching with a donkey-cart—­Over the Coteaux to Gan—­The drive to Pietat—­Picnicking and rejected attentions—­The church—­Feather moss—­Bizanos—­Carnival time—­“Poor Pillicoddy” —­“Idyllic Colbert.”

CHAPTER II.

Bagneres de Bigorre.

Backward spring—­Hotel Beau Sejour—­Effect of the war of ’70 on the English colony—­The “Coustous”—­The Church of St. Vincent—­Geruzet’s marble works—­Donkeys—­Up the Monne—­Bains de Sante—­Bains de Grand Pre—­Salut Avenue and baths—­“Ai-ue, Ai-ue”—­Luncheon—­Daffodils—­The summit and the view—­The “Castel-Mouly”—­The Tapere—­Mde.  Cottin—­Mont Bedat—­Gentians—­The Croix de Manse—­“The Lady’s Farewell to her Asinine Steed”—­Market-day—­The old iron and shoe dealers—­Sunday—­A cat fight—­The English Church—­To the Col d’Aspin—­“The Abbe’s Song”—­Baudean—­Campan, its people and church—­Wayside chapels—­Ste. Marie—­The route to Gripp, &c.—­Payole—­The pine forest—­The Col d’Aspin—­The view from the Monne Rouge—­“The Plaint of the Weather-beaten Pine”—­The Menu at Payole—­Hurrah for the milk!—­Departures—­Divine music—­Aste—­Gabrielle d’Estrelle—­The ivied ruins—­The church—­ Pitton de Tournefort—­Gerde—­The pigeon traps—­The cattle market —­The Jacobin tower—­Theatre—­Grand Etablissement des Thermes —­Hospice Civil—­Eglise des Carmes—­Mount Olivet—­Madame Cheval, her cakes and tea—­Bigorre in tears

CHAPTER III.

Lourdes.

The journey to Tarbes—­The Buffet and the Nigger—­Lourdes station in the wet—­Importunate “Cochers”—­Hotel des Pyrenees—­“Red tape” and Porters—­Lourdes in sunshine—­Sightseeing—­The “Rue de la Grotte”—­ “The Cry of the Lourdes Shopkeepers”—­Candle-sellers—­The Grotto—­Abject reverence—­The Church—­Saint Bernard—­Interior of church—­The panorama—­Admirable effect—­Rue du Fort—­The castle—­The view from the Tower—­Pie de Mars, or Ringed Ousels