Two of these creatures came into my room in the early morning, through a window whose shutters I had left open, and when I woke one of them was before the glass brushing his hair, and the other one had my note-book, and was reading a page of humorous notes and crying.  I did not mind the one with the hair-brush, but the conduct of the other one hurt me; it hurts me yet.  I threw something at him, and that was wrong, for my host had told me that the monkeys were best left alone.  They threw everything at me that they could lift, and then went into the bathroom to get some more things, and I shut the door on them.

At Jeypore, in Rajputana, we made a considerable stay.  We were not in the native city, but several miles from it, in the small European official suburb.  There were but few Europeans—­only fourteen but they were all kind and hospitable, and it amounted to being at home.  In Jeypore we found again what we had found all about India—­that while the Indian servant is in his way a very real treasure, he will sometimes bear watching, and the Englishman watches him.  If he sends him on an errand, he wants more than the man’s word for it that he did the errand.  When fruit and vegetables were sent to us, a “chit” came with them—­a receipt for us to sign; otherwise the things might not arrive.  If a gentleman sent up his carriage, the chit stated “from” such-and-such an hour “to” such-and-such an hour—­which made it unhandy for the coachman and his two or three subordinates to put us off with a part of the allotted time and devote the rest of it to a lark of their own.

We were pleasantly situated in a small two-storied inn, in an empty large compound which was surrounded by a mud wall as high as a man’s head.  The inn was kept by nine Hindoo brothers, its owners.  They lived, with their families, in a one-storied building within the compound, but off to one side, and there was always a long pile of their little comely brown children loosely stacked in its veranda, and a detachment of the parents wedged among them, smoking the hookah or the howdah, or whatever they call it.  By the veranda stood a palm, and a monkey lived in it, and led a lonesome life, and always looked sad and weary, and the crows bothered him a good deal.

The inn cow poked about the compound and emphasized the secluded and country air of the place, and there was a dog of no particular breed, who was always present in the compound, and always asleep, always stretched out baking in the sun and adding to the deep tranquility and reposefulness of the place, when the crows were away on business.  White-draperied servants were coming and going all the time, but they seemed only spirits, for their feet were bare and made no sound.  Down the lane a piece lived an elephant in the shade of a noble tree, and rocked and rocked, and reached about with his trunk, begging of his brown mistress or fumbling the children playing at his feet.  And there were camels about, but they go on velvet feet, and were proper to the silence and serenity of the surroundings.