leaves, spread a gigantic Cantal cheese, cloven here
and there as by an axe; then came a golden-hued Cheshire,
and next a Gruyere, resembling a wheel fallen from
some barbarian chariot; whilst farther on were some
Dutch cheeses, suggesting decapitated heads suffused
with dry blood, and having all that hardness of skulls
which in France has gained them the name of “death’s
heads.” Amidst the heavy exhalations of
these, a Parmesan set a spicy aroma. Then there
came three Brie cheeses displayed on round platters,
and looking like melancholy extinct moons. Two
of them, very dry, were at the full; the third, in
its second quarter, was melting away in a white cream,
which had spread into a pool and flowed over the little
wooden barriers with which an attempt had been made
to arrest its course. Next came some Port Saluts,
similar to antique discs, with exergues bearing their
makers’ names in print. A Romantour, in
its tin-foil wrapper, suggested a bar of nougat or
some sweet cheese astray amidst all these pungent,
fermenting curds. The Roqueforts under their
glass covers also had a princely air, their fat faces
marbled with blue and yellow, as though they were
suffering from some unpleasant malady such as attacks
the wealthy gluttons who eat too many truffles.
And on a dish by the side of these, the hard grey
goats’ milk cheeses, about the size of a child’s
fist, resembled the pebbles which the billy-goats
send rolling down the stony paths as they clamber along
ahead of their flocks. Next came the strong smelling
cheeses: the Mont d’Ors, of a bright yellow
hue, and exhaling a comparatively mild odour; the Troyes,
very thick, and bruised at the edges, and of a far
more pungent smell, recalling the dampness of a cellar;
the Camemberts, suggestive of high game; the square
Neufchatels, Limbourgs, Marolles, and Pont l’Eveques,
each adding its own particular sharp scent to the malodorous
bouquet, till it became perfectly pestilential; the
Livarots, ruddy in hue, and as irritating to the throat
as sulphur fumes; and, lastly, stronger than all the
others, the Olivets, wrapped in walnut leaves, like
the carrion which peasants cover with branches as
it lies rotting in the hedgerow under the blazing
sun.
The heat of the afternoon had softened the cheeses;
the patches of mould on their crusts were melting,
and glistening with tints of ruddy bronze and verdigris.
Beneath their cover of leaves, the skins of the Olivets
seemed to be heaving as with the slow, deep respiration
of a sleeping man. A Livarot was swarming with
life; and in a fragile box behind the scales a Gerome
flavoured with aniseed diffused such a pestilential
smell that all around it the very flies had fallen
lifeless on the gray-veined slap of ruddy marble.
This Gerome was almost immediately under Mademoiselle
Saget’s nose; so she drew back, and leaned her
head against the big sheets of white and yellow paper
which were hanging in a corner.
“Yes,” she repeated, with an expression
of disgust, “he comes from the galleys!
Ah, those Quenu-Gradelles have no reason to put on
so many airs!”