exposing ourselves to the danger and difficulty of that part of the road.  All at once, in a ravine on the right-hand side of the way, I saw a sort of amphitheatre, wonderfully illuminated.  In a funnel-shaped space there were innumerable little lights gleaming, ranged step-fashion over one another; and they shone so brilliantly that the eye was dazzled.  But what still more confused the sight was, that they did not keep still, but jumped about here and there, as well downwards from above as vice versa, and in every direction.  The greater part of them, however, remained stationary, and beamed on.  It was only with the greatest reluctance that I suffered myself to be called away from this spectacle, which I could have wished to examine more closely.  The postilion, when questioned, said that he knew nothing about such a phenomenon, but that there was in the neighborhood an old stone-quarry, the excavation of which was filled with water.  Now, whether this was a pandemonium of will-o’-the-wisps, or a company of luminous creatures, I will not decide.

The roads through Thuringia were yet worse; and unfortunately, at night-fall, our coach stuck fast in the vicinity of Auerstaedt.  We were far removed from all mankind, and did every thing possible to work ourselves out.  I failed not to exert myself zealously, and might thereby have overstrained the ligaments of my chest; for soon afterwards I felt a pain, which went off and returned, and did not leave me entirely until after many years.

Yet on that same night, as if it had been destined for alternate good and bad luck, I was forced, after an unexpectedly fortunate incident, to experience a teazing vexation.  We met, in Auerstaedt, a genteel married couple, who had also just arrived, having been delayed by a similar accident; a pleasing, dignified man, in his best years, with a very handsome wife.  They politely persuaded us to sup in their company, and I felt very happy when the excellent lady addressed a friendly word to me.  But when I was sent out to hasten the soup which had been ordered, not having been accustomed to the loss of rest and the fatigues of travelling, such an unconquerable drowsiness overtook me, that actually I fell asleep while walking, returned into the room with my hat on my head, and, without remarking that the others were saying grace, placed myself with quiet unconsciousness behind the chair, and never dreamed that by my conduct I had come to disturb their devotions in a very droll way.  Madame Fleischer, who lacked neither spirit nor wit nor tongue, entreated the strangers, before they had seated themselves, not to be surprised at any thing they might see here; for that their young fellow-traveller had in his nature much of the peculiarity of the Quakers, who believe that they cannot honor God and the king better than with covered heads.  The handsome lady, who could not restrain her laughter, looked prettier than ever in consequence; and I would have given every thing in the world not to have been the cause of a merriment which was so highly becoming to her countenance.  I had, however, scarcely laid aside my hat, when these persons, in accordance with their polished manners, immediately dropped the joke, and, with the best wine from their bottle-case, completely extinguished sleep, chagrin, and the memory of all past troubles.