In analyzing this list we find three distinctly foreign kinds named:  the Orange, Franconia, and Herstine.  If the last is not wholly of foreign origin, the element of our native species enters into it so slightly that it will not endure winters in our latitude, or the summer sun of the South.  For excellence, however, it is unsurpassed.

In the Cuthbert, Marlboro, and Lost Rubies we have hybrids of the foreign and our native species, forming the second class referred to; in the Turner and Hansel, examples of our native species unmixed.  To each of these classes might be added a score of other varieties which have been more or less popular, but they would serve only to distract the reader’s attention.  I have tested forty or fifty kinds side by side at one time, only to be shown that four or five varieties would answer all practical purposes.  I can assure the reader, however, that it will be scarcely possible to find a soil or climate where some of these approved sorts will not thrive abundantly and at slight outlay.

Throughout southern New England, along the bank of the Hudson, and westward, almost any raspberry can be grown with proper treatment.  There are exceptions, which are somewhat curious.  For instance, the famous Hudson River Antwerp, which until within a very few years has been one of the great crops of the State, has never been grown successfully to any extent except on the west bank of the river, and within the limited area of Kingston on the north and Cornwall on the south.  The Franconia, another foreign sort, has proved itself adapted to more extended conditions of soil and climate.

I have grown successfully nearly every well-known raspberry, and perhaps I can best give the instruction I desire to convey by describing the methods finally adopted after many years of observation, reading, and experience.  I will speak of the class first named, belonging to the foreign species, of which I have tested many varieties.  I expect to set out this year rows of Brinckle’s Orange, Franconia, Hudson River Antwerp, and others.  For this class I should make the ground very rich, deep, and mellow.  I should prefer to set out the plants in the autumn—­from the middle of October to the tenth of November; if not then, in early spring—­the earlier the better—­while the buds are dormant.  I should have the rows four feet apart; and if the plants were to be grown among the smaller fruit-trees, I should maintain a distance from them of at least seven feet.  I should use only young plants, those of the previous summer’s growth, and set them in the ground about as deeply as they stood when taken up—­say three or four inches of earth above the point from which the roots branched.  I should put two well-rooted plants in each hill, and this would make the hills four feet apart each way.  By “hills” I do not mean elevations of ground.  This should be kept level throughout all future cultivation.  I should cut back the