We all arrived safe at Ukaranga, though we got dangerously near a herd of hippopotami.  The crossing of the wide mouth (the Liuche being then in flood) was effected in about four hours.

The next day, in the same order as on our departure from Ujiji, we pursued our way south, the lake party keeping as closely as possible to the shore, yet, when feasible, wind and weather permitting, we struck off boldly across the numerous small bays which indent the shores of the Tanganika.  The shores were beautifully green, the effect of the late rains; the waters of the lake were a faithful reflex of the blue firmament above.  The hippopotami were plentiful.  Those noticed on this day were coloured with reddish rings round the base of their ears and on the neck.  One monster, coming up rather late, was surprised by the canoe making full for him, and in great fright took a tremendous dive which showed the whole length of his body.  Half way between the mouth of the Malagarazi and that of the Liuche we saw a camp on shore—­that of Mohammed bin Gharib, a Msawahili, who figured often in Livingstone’s verbal narrative to me of his adventures and travels as one of the kindest and best of the Moslems in Central Africa.  He appeared to me a kindly disposed man, with a face seldom seen, having the stamp of an unusual characteristic on it—­that of sincerity.

The vegetation of the shores as we proceeded was truly tropical, each curve revealed new beauties.  With the soft chalky stone, of which most of the cliffs and bluffs are made, seen as we neared the mouth of the Malagarazi, the surf has played strange freaks.

We arrived at the mouth of the Malagarazi about P.M., having rowed eighteen miles from Ukaranga.  The shore party arrived, very much fatigued, about 5 P.M.

The next day was employed in crossing the caravan across the broad mouth of the Malagarazi to our camp, a couple of miles north of the river.  This is a river which a civilised community would find of immense advantage for shortening the distance between the Tanganika and the coast.  Nearly one hundred miles might be performed by this river, which is deep enough at all seasons to allow navigation as far as Kiala, in Uvinza, whence a straight road might be easily made to Unyanyembe.  Missionaries also might reap the same benefit from it for conversion-tours to Uvinza, Uhha, and Ugala.  Pursuing our way on the 30th, and rounding the picturesque capes of Kagongo, Mviga and Kivoe, we came, after about three hours’ rowing, in sight of villages at the mouth of the swift and turbid Rugufu.  Here we had again to transport the caravan ever the crocodile-infested mouth of the river.