my melancholy frame of mind.  Where Karl, on looking at the ruined walls, only saw the Ca d’Oro of Fanny Elser or some other famous palace, my doleful glances were completely absorbed by the crumbling ruins between these interesting buildings.  At last I became silent, and allowed myself to be put down at the world-famous Piazzetta, and to be shown the palace of the Doges, though I reserved to myself the right of admiring it until I had freed myself from the extremely melancholy mood into which my arrival in Venice had thrown me.

Starting on the following morning from the Hotel Danieli, where we had found only a gloomy lodging, I began by looking for a residence that would suit me for my prolonged stay.  I heard that one of the three Giustiniani palaces, situated not far from the Palazzo Foscari, was at present very little patronised by visitors, on account of its situation, which in the winter is somewhat unfavourable.  I found some very spacious and imposing apartments there, all of which they told me would remain uninhabited.  I here engaged a large stately room with a spacious bedroom adjoining.  I had my luggage quickly transferred there, and on the evening of 30th August I said to myself, ’At last I am living in Venice.’  My leading idea was that I could work here undisturbed.  I immediately wrote to Zurich asking for my Erard ‘Grand’ and my bed to be sent on to me, as, with regard to the latter, I felt that I should find out what cold meant in Venice.  In addition to this, the grey-washed walls of my large room soon annoyed me, as they were so little suited to the ceiling, which was covered with a fresco which I thought was rather tasteful.  I decided to have the walls of the large room covered with hangings of a dark-red shade, even if they were of quite common quality.  This immediately caused much trouble; but it seemed to me that it was well worth surmounting, when I gazed down from my balcony with growing satisfaction on the wonderful canal, and said to myself that here I would complete Tristan.  I also had a little more decorating done; I arranged to have dark-red portieres, even if they were of the cheapest material, to cover the common doors which the Hungarian landlord had had put into the ruined palace in place of the original valuable ones, which had probably been sold.  In addition, the host had contrived to get some showy furniture, such as a few gilded chairs, covered with common cotton plush; but the most prominent article was a finely carved gilded table-pedestal, on which was placed a vulgar pinewood top which I had to cover with a plain red cloth.  Finally the Erard arrived; it was placed in the middle of the large room, and now wonderful Venice was to be attacked by music.