----------------------------------------------------Mil

es.

1.  From Yambu’, 18th July, to Musahhal, N.E.----------16
2.  From Musahhal, 19th July, to Bir Sa’id, S. and E.—­34   64 miles
3.  From Bir Sa’id, 20th July, to Al-Hamra, N.E.-------14

4.  From Al-Hamra, 21st July, to Bir Abbas, E.---------24
5.  From Bir Abbas, 23rd July, to Suwaykah, E.---------22   68 miles
6.  From Suwaykah, 24thJuly, to Al-Madinah, N. and E.—­22

Total English miles----------------------------------132

[p.285]Chapter xv.

Through the suburb of al-Madinah to Hamid’s house.

As we looked Eastward, the sun arose out of the horizon of low hill, blurred and dotted with small tufted trees, which gained from the morning mists a giant stature, and the earth was stained with purple and gold.  Before us lay a spacious plain, bounded in front by the undulating ground of Nijd:  on the left was a grim pile of rocks, the celebrated Mount Ohod, with a clump of verdure and a white dome or two nestling at its base.  Rightwards, broad streaks of lilac-coloured mists, here thick with gathered dew, there pierced and thinned by the morning rays, stretched over the date groves and the gardens of Kuba, which stood out in emerald green from the dull tawny surface of the plain.  Below, distant about two miles, lay Al-Madinah; at first sight it appeared a large place, but a closer inspection proved the impression to be erroneous.  A tortuous road from the Harrah to the city wound across the plain, and led to a tall rectangular gateway, pierced in the ruinous mud-wall which surrounds the suburb.  This is the “Ambari” entrance.  It is flanked on the left (speaking as a sketcher) by the domes and minarets of a pretty Turkish building, a “Takiyah,” erected by the late Mohammed Ali for the reception of Darwaysh travellers; on the right by a long low line of white-washed buildings garnished

[p.286] with ugly square windows, an imitation of civilised barracks.  Beginning from the left hand, as we sat upon the ridge, the remarkable features of the town thus presented themselves in succession.  Outside, among the palm trees to the north of the city, were the picturesque ruins of a large old Sabil, or public fountain; and, between this and the enceinte, stood a conspicuous building, in the Turkish pavilion style-the Governor’s palace.  On the north-west angle of the town-wall is a tall white-washed fort, partly built upon an outcropping mass of rock:  its ramparts and embrasures give it a modern and European appearance, which contrasts strangely with its truly Oriental history.[FN#1] In the suburb “Al-Manakhah,” the “kneeling-place of camels,” the bran-new domes and minarets of the Five Mosques stand brightly out from the dull grey mass of house and ground.  And behind, in the most Easterly part of the city, remarkable from afar, is the gem of Al-Madinah,-the four tall substantial towers, and the flashing green Dome under which the Apostle’s remains rest.[FN#2] Half concealed by this mass of buildings and by the houses of the town, are certain white specks upon a green surface, the tombs that adorn the venerable cemetery, Al-Bakia.  From that point southwards begins the mass of palm groves celebrated in Al-Islam as the “Trees of Al-Madinah.”