the poor mother stood her trials so well, made every one wonder.  The most pleasant trait in my companions’ characters was the consideration they showed to her, and their attention to her children.  Whenever one of the party drew forth a little delicacy-a few dates or a pomegranate-they gave away a share of it to the children, and most of them took their turns to nurse the baby.  This was genuine politeness-kindness of heart.  It would be well for those who sweepingly accuse Easterns of want of gallantry, to contrast this trait of character with the savage scenes of civilisation that take place among the “Overlands” at Cairo and Suez.[FN#4] No foreigner could be present for the first time without bearing away the lasting impression that the sons of Great Britain are model barbarians.[FN#5] On board the “Golden Wire” Salih Shakkar was the sole base exception to the general geniality of my companions.

As the sun starts towards the West, falling harmlessly upon our heads, we arise, still faint and dizzy, calling for water-which before we had not the strength

[p.211] to drink-and pipes, and coffee, and similar luxuries.  Our primitive kitchen is a square wooden box, lined with clay, and filled with sand, upon which three or four large stones are placed to form a hearth.  Preparations are now made for the evening meal, which is of the simplest description.  A little rice, a few dates, or an onion, will keep a man alive in our position; a single “good dinner” would justify long odds against his seeing the next evening.  Moreover, it is impossible in such cases to have an appetite-fortunately, as our store of provisions is a scanty one.  Arabs consider it desirable on a journey to eat hot food once in the twenty-four hours; so we determine to cook, despite all difficulties.  The operation, however, is by no means satisfactory; twenty expectants surround the single fire, and there is sure to be a quarrel amongst them every five minutes.

As the breeze, cooled by the dew, begins to fan our parched faces, we recover our spirits amazingly.  Songs are sung; tales are told; and rough jests are bandied about till, not unfrequently, Oriental sensitiveness is sorely tried.  Or, if we see the prospect of storm or calm, we draw forth, and piously peruse, a “Hizb al-Bahr.”  As this prayer is supposed to make all safe upon the ocean wave, I will not selfishly withhold it from the British reader.  To draw forth all its virtues, the reciter should receive it from the hands of his Murshid or spiritual guide, and study it during the Chillah, or forty days of fast, of which, I venture to observe, few Sons of Bull are capable.

“O Allah, O Exalted, O Almighty, O All-pitiful, O All-powerful, Thou art my God, and sufficeth to me the knowledge of it!  Glorified be the Lord my Lord, and glorified be the Faith my Faith!  Thou givest Victory to whom Thou pleasest, and Thou art the Glorious, the Merciful!  We pray Thee for Safety in our goings forth and our standings still, in our Words and our Designs, in our