me to his clerk. The under-official at once saw
the irregularity of the document, asked me why it
had not been vise at Cairo, swore that under such
circumstances nothing would induce the Bey to let me
proceed; and, when I tried persuasion, waxed insolent.
I feared that it would be necessary to travel via
Cosseir, for which there was scarcely time, or to
transfer myself on camel-back to the harbour of Tur,
and there to await the chance of finding a place in
some half-filled vessel to Al-Hijaz,-which would have
been relying upon an accident. My last hope at
Suez was to obtain assistance from Mr. West, then H.B.M.’s
Vice-Consul, and since made Consul. I therefore
took the boy Mohammed with me, choosing him on purpose,
and excusing the step to my companions by concocting
an artful fable about my having been, in Afghanistan,
a benefactor to the British nation. We proceeded
to the Consulate. Mr. West, who had been told
by imprudent Augustus Bernal to expect me, saw through
the disguise, despite jargon assumed to satisfy official
scruples, and nothing could be kinder than the part
he took. His clerk was directed to place himself
in communication with the Bey’s factotum; and,
when objections to signing the Alexandrian Tazkirah
were offered, the Vice-Consul said that he would,
at his own risk, give me a fresh passport as a British
subject from Suez to Arabia. His firmness prevailed:
on the second day, the documents were returned to me
in a satisfactory state. I take a pleasure in
owning this obligation to Mr. West: in the course
of my wanderings, I have often
[p.170] received from him open-hearted hospitality
and the most friendly attentions.
Whilst these passport difficulties were being solved,
the rest of the party was as busy in settling about
passage and passage-money. The peculiar rules
of the port of Suez require a few words of explanation.[FN#10]
“About thirty-five years ago” (i.e. about
1818 A.D.), “the ship-owners proposed to the
then government, with the view of keeping up freight,
a Farzah, or system of rotation. It might be
supposed that the Pasha, whose object notoriously was
to retain all monoplies in his own hands, would have
refused his sanction to such a measure. But it
so happened in those days that all the court had ships
at Suez: Ibrahim Pasha alone owned four or five.
Consequently, they expected to share profits with
the merchants, and thus to be compensated for the
want of port-dues. From that time forward all
the vessels in the harbour were registered, and ordered
to sail in rotation. This arrangement benefits
the owner of the craft en depart,’ giving him
in his turn a temporary monopoly, with the advantage
of a full market; and freight is so high that a single
trip often clears off the expense of building and
the risk of losing the ship-a sensible succedaneum
for insurance companies. On the contrary, the
public must always be a loser by the Farzah.’
Two of a trade do not agree elsewhere; but at Suez
even the Christian and the Moslem shipowner are bound
by a fraternal tie, in the shape of this rotation system.
It injures the general merchant and the Red Sea trader,
not only by