Betterton are curious among the latter, Cartwright and Flatman among the former.  The arcade is newly enclosed, painted in fresco, and with modern glass of all the family matches.  In the gallery is a whole-length of the unfortunate Earl of Surry, with his device, a broken column, and the motto Sat superest.  My father had one of them, but larger, and with more emblems, which the Duke of Norfolk bought at my brother’s sale.  There is one good head of henry viii., and divers of Cranfield, Earl of Middlesex, the citizen who came to be lord treasurer, and was very near coming to be hanged.(334) His Countess, a bouncing kind of lady-mayoress, looks pure awkward amongst so much good company.  A visto cut through the wood has a delightful effect from the front:  but there are some trumpery fragments of gardens that spoil the view from the state apartments.

We lay that night at Tunbridge town, and were surprised with the ruins of the old castle.  The gateway is perfect, and the enclosure formed into a vineyard by a Mr. Hooker, to whom it belongs, and the walls spread with fruit, and the mount on which the keep stood, planted in the same way.  The prospect is charming, and a breach in the wall opens below to a pretty Gothic bridge of three arches over the Medway.  We honoured the man for his taste-not but that we wished the committee at Strawberry Hill were to sit upon it, and stick cypresses among the hollows.—­But, alas! he sometimes makes eighteen sour hogsheads, and is going to disrobe ‘the ivy-mantled tower,’ because it harbours birds!

Now begins our chapter of woes.  The inn was full of farmers and tobacco; and the next morning, when we were bound for Penshurst, the only man in the town who had two horses would not let us have them, because the roads, as he said, were so bad.  We were forced to send to the wells for others, which did not arrive till half the day was spent-we all the while up to the head and ears in a market of sheep and oxen.  A mile from the town we climbed up a hill to see Summer Hill,(335) the residence of Grammont’s Princess of Babylon.(336) There is now scarce a road to it:  the Paladins of those times were too valorous to fear breaking their necks; and I much apprehend that la Monsery and the fair Mademoiselle Hamilton,(337) must have mounted their palfreys and rode behind their gentlemen-ushers upon pillions to the Wells.  The house is little better than a farm, but has been an excellent one, and is entire, though out of repair.  I have drawn the front of it to show you, which you are to draw over again to show me.  It stands high, commands a vast landscape beautifully wooded, and has quantities of large old trees to shelter itself, some of which might be well spared to open views.

>From Summer Hill we went to Lamberhurst to dine; near which, that is, at the distance of three miles, up and down impracticable hills, in a most retired vale, such as Pope describes in the last Dunciad,