From Boscofolto to the church of the Madonna del Monte, where is one of their wonder-working images, said to be annually visited by close on thirty thousand pilgrims; but there is always some exaggeration in such figures.  A fine building, richly adorned, and hung with an extraordinary number of votive offerings:  silver arms, legs, hearts, wax images, and paintings.  Some of these latter are clearly the work of village artists, and depict the miraculous escape of the peasantry from various calamities, and the preservation of their crops from floods, drought, lightning and so forth.  These poor wretches had done more to better their crops by spending their savings in good ploughshares and harrows than by hanging gew-gaws on a wooden idol.

The Rector received us civilly and showed us the treasury, full of jewels and costly plate, and the buildings where the pilgrims are lodged.  Learned that the Giubileo or centenary festival of the Madonna is shortly to be celebrated with great pomp.  The poorer classes delight in these ceremonies, and I am told this is to surpass all previous ones, the clergy intending to work on the superstitions of the people and thus turn them against the new charter.  It is said the Duke hopes to counteract these designs by offering a jewelled diadem to the Virgin; but this will no doubt do him a bad turn with the esprits libres.  These little states are as full of intrigues as a foul fruit of maggots.

The 5th.

To dinner at Count Trescorre’s where, as usual, I was the plainest-dressed man in the company.  Have long since ceased to be concerned by this:  why should a mere English farmer compete in elegance with these Monsignori and Illustrissimi?  Surprised to find among the company my travelling-companion of the other day.  Learned that he is the abate de Crucis, a personal friend of the Duke’s.  He greeted me cordially, and on hearing my name, said that he was acquainted with my works in the translation of Mons. Freville, and now understood how it was that I had got the better of him in our farming disputations on the way hither.

Was surprised to be told by Count Trescorre that the Duke desired me to wait on him that evening.  Though in general not ambitious of such honours, yet in this case nothing could be more gratifying.

The 6th.

Yesterday evening to the palace, where his Highness received me with great affability.  He was in his private apartments, with the abate de Crucis and several other learned men; among them the famous abate Crescenti, librarian to his Highness and author of the celebrated Chronicles of the Italian States.  Happy indeed is the prince who surrounds himself with scholars instead of courtiers!  Yet I cannot say that the impression his Highness produced on me was one of happiness.  His countenance is sad, almost careworn, though with a smile of engaging sweetness; his manner affable without condescension, and open