Crossing the Piana, drove near four hours over horrible roads across waste land, thinly wooded, without houses or cultivation.  On my expressing surprise that the territory of so enlightened a prince would lie thus neglected, the abate said this land was a fief of the see of Pianura, and that the Duke was desirous of annexing it to the duchy.  I asked if it were true that his Highness had given his people a constitution modelled on that of the Duke of Tuscany.  He said he had heard the report; but that for his part he must deplore any measure tending to debar the clergy from the possession of land.  Seeing my surprise, he explained that, in Italy at least, the religious orders were far better landlords than the great nobles or the petty sovereigns, who, being for the most part absent from their estates, left their peasantry to be pillaged by rapacious middlemen and stewards:  an argument I have heard advanced by other travellers, and have myself had frequent occasion to corroborate.

On leaving the Bishop’s domain, remarked an improvement in the roads.  Flat land, well irrigated, and divided as usual into small holdings.  The pernicious metayer system exists everywhere, but I am told the Duke is opposed to it, though it is upheld not only by the landed class, but by the numerous economists that write on agriculture from their closets, but would doubtless be sorely puzzled to distinguish a beet-root from a turnip.

The 3rd.

Set out early to visit Pianura.  The city clean and well-kept.  The Duke has introduced street-lamps, such as are used in Turin, and the pavement is remarkably fair and even.  Few beggars are to be seen and the people have a thriving look.  Visited the Cathedral and Baptistery, in the Gothic style, more curious than beautiful; also the Duke’s picture gallery.

Learning that the Duchess was to ride out in the afternoon, had the curiosity to walk abroad to see her.  A good view of her as she left the palace.  Though no longer in her first youth she is one of the handsomest women I have seen.  Remarked a decided likeness to the Queen of France, though the eye and smile are less engaging.  The people in the streets received her sullenly, and I am told her debts and disorders are the scandal of the town.  She has, of course, her cicisbeo, and the Duke is the devoted slave of a learned lady, who is said to exert an unlimited influence over him, and to have done much to better the condition of the people.  A new part for a prince’s mistress to play!

In the evening to the theatre, a handsome building, well-lit with wax, where Cimarosa’s Due Baroni was agreeably sung.

The 4th.

My lord Hervey, in Florence, having favoured me with a letter to Count Trescorre, the Duke’s prime minister, I waited on that gentleman yesterday.  His excellency received me politely and assured me that he knew me by reputation and would do all he could to put me in the way of investigating the agricultural conditions of the duchy.  Contrary to the Italian custom, he invited me to dine with him the next day.  As a rule these great nobles do not open their doors to foreigners, however well recommended.