Just beyond the forum, elevated somewhat, is a large, well-preserved temple; and immediately to the right of the temple is a theater built in the hill-side with seats, stage, and other parts plainly distinguishable.  It is easy to sit in one of these empty benches and see, as a shadow out of the past, a lively scene presented on the now deserted stage—­the voice of eloquence rings clear out of the dead centuries, the play-house resounds with the applause of the shades that fill the seats about me—­and, then, the curtain of mystery is dispelled by the bright sunlight that floods all the landscape, and I see nothing but ruins everywhere.  The play is over.  The shades have gone again to their long home.

On a commanding position in the north-west quarter stood temples of vast proportions whose spacious courts, tottering walls, and forsaken altars speak in eloquent terms of a glory long since departed.  Evidently this was a populous city, for it possessed two theaters capable of seating many thousands of people.  That it was a religious city, and much given to idolatry, its temples and altars declare.

While Josephus speaks of the capture of this city by Alexander Jannaeus, about 85 B.C., we look in vain for a mention of it in the Bible.  But some recent investigators, notably Dr. Merrill, (with whom I had the pleasure and honor of conversing,) incline to the opinion that Gerasa was the original Ramoth-gilead.  Dr. Merrill gives six arguments in favor of his position, which, after my observations made in the place itself, I feel like accepting.

If this were Ramoth-gilead, then how much of Bible story clusters about the spot!  It was a “city of refuge”; and over these hills or up and down this valley rushed the accidental man-slayer to seek refuge within its gates from the blood-thirsty pursuer.  Here Ahab was slain (I.  Kings 22:34-37), here Ahaziah and Jehoram defeated Hazael (II.  Kings 8:28, 29; 9:14), and here Jehu was anointed king of Israel and rode forth in a chariot to execute his terrible commission concerning the house of Ahab (II.  Kings 9:4-26).

Gerasa!  Beautiful, though in ruins.  What glory must once have been thine!  But where are the warriors who passed in triumph through thy gates?  Where are the builders of thy temples?  Where are the the priests who ministered at thy altars?  Where are the devotees who bowed at thy shrines?  Where are the people who thronged thy theaters and trod thy beautiful streets?  The hills over which man walked are still here; the rocks that he quarried, carved, polished, and fitted into place are here; the stone coffin in which he lay down to his last resting-place is here—­but where is he?  Gone! gone forever!  Surely, how frail is man!  How fleeting his glory!  As the waters of thy stream flow on to the Sea of Death, so has the tide of life which swept through thy streets passed on to the grave and oblivion.

“Up Into the Mountains”