dismally crawling out of the roaring waters with nothing
left but the clothes on their backs. Our opinion
was, they were served just right: first, because
they had stolen our property, and, second, because
they had so little sense. The walls had rapidly
grown in altitude, and near the river were vertical
so that climbing out at this place was a particularly
difficult undertaking. The river was still very
high, but not at the highest stage of this year, which
had been passed before the Canonita party had come
down to the Paria from Fremont River. But the
canyon was even yet uncomfortably full and we were
hoping the water would diminish rapidly, for high
tide in such a place is a great disadvantage.
The stream was thick with red mud, the condition from
which it derived its name, and it swept along with
a splendid vigour that betokened a large reserve flood
in the high mountains. The marble composing the
walls of this canyon for most of its length is of
a greyish drab colour often beautifully veined, but
it must not be supposed that the walls are the same
colour externally, for they are usually a deep red,
due to the discoloration of their surface by disintegration
of beds above full of iron. Except where high
water had scoured the walls, there was generally no
indication of their real colour. In places the
friction of the current had brought them to a glistening
polish; the surface was smooth as glass, and was sometimes
cut into multitudinous irregular flutings as deep as
one’s finger. The grinding power of the
current was well shown in some of the boulders, which
had been dovetailed together till the irregular line
of juncture was barely perceptible.
The next day was begun by accomplishing the portage
over the rapid which had punished the prospectors
for their temerity and for their lack of proper morals,
and then we made most excellent progress, successfully
putting behind us eleven lively rapids free from rocks
before we were admonished to pause and make a let-down.
Then camp was established for the night with the record
of ten and three-eighths miles for our day’s
work. At one place we passed a rock in the water
so large that it almost blocked the entire stream,
which had averaged about two hundred feet in width,
though narrowing at many places to no more than seventy-five.
The current was always extremely swift, while many
whirlpools added their demands, though they gave us
no serious trouble. It is exasperating, however,
to be turned around against one’s will.
The canyon at the top for a considerable distance
was not over three-quarters of a mile wide. The
depth was now from fifteen hundred to eighteen hundred
feet. There were always rapids following quickly
one after another, but so often they were free from
rocks, the dangerous part of most rapids, that we were
able to sail through them in triumph. On the
20th, out of thirteen sharp descents, we easily ran
twelve, all in a distance of less than seven miles.
The average width of the river was one hundred and