miles away under my feet, showing how uneven the earth
may sometimes be, and making it seem an accident that
it should ever be level and convenient for the feet
of man. Putting a little rice and sugar and a
tin cup into my knapsack at this village, I began
in the afternoon to ascend the mountain, whose summit
is three thousand six hundred feet above the level
of the sea, and was seven or eight miles distant by
the path. My route lay up a long and spacious
valley called the Bellows, because the winds rush
up or down it with violence in storms, sloping up
to the very clouds between the principal range and
a lower mountain. There were a few farms scattered
along at different elevations, each commanding a fine
prospect of the mountains to the north, and a stream
ran down the middle of the valley on which near the
head there was a mill. It seemed a road for
the pilgrim to enter upon who would climb to the gates
of heaven. Now I crossed a hay-field, and now
over the brook on a slight bridge, still gradually
ascending all the while with a sort of awe, and filled
with indefinite expectations as to what kind of inhabitants
and what kind of nature I should come to at last.
It now seemed some advantage that the earth was uneven,
for one could not imagine a more noble position for
a farm-house than this vale afforded, farther from
or nearer to its head, from a glen-like seclusion
overlooking the country at a great elevation between
these two mountain walls.
It reminded me of the homesteads of the Huguenots,
on Staten Island, off the coast of New Jersey.
The hills in the interior of this island, though
comparatively low, are penetrated in various directions
by similar sloping valleys on a humble scale, gradually
narrowing and rising to the centre, and at the head
of these the Huguenots, who were the first settlers,
placed their houses quite within the land, in rural
and sheltered places, in leafy recesses where the
breeze played with the poplar and the gum-tree, from
which, with equal security in calm and storm, they
looked out through a widening vista, over miles of
forest and stretching salt marsh, to the Huguenot’s
Tree, an old elm on the shore at whose root they had
landed, and across the spacious outer bay of New York
to Sandy Hook and the Highlands of Neversink, and
thence over leagues of the Atlantic, perchance to
some faint vessel in the horizon, almost a day’s
sail on her voyage to that Europe whence they had
come. When walking in the interior there, in
the midst of rural scenery, where there was as little
to remind me of the ocean as amid the New Hampshire
hills, I have suddenly, through a gap, a cleft or
“clove road,” as the Dutch settlers called
it, caught sight of a ship under full sail, over a
field of corn, twenty or thirty miles at sea.
The effect was similar, since I had no means of measuring
distances, to seeing a painted ship passed backwards
and forwards through a magic-lantern.