stop their song and suddenly give voice to the new cry that has been taught them for the benefit of the tourists:  “Hip!  Hip!  Hip!  Hurrah!” Coming at this moment, when, with heart oppressed by all the utilitarian vandalism that surrounds us, we were entering the sanctuary, what an effect of gross and imbecile profanation this bellowing of English joy produces!  The boatmen know, moreover, that they have been displaced, that their day has gone for ever; perhaps even, in the depths of their Nubian souls, they understand us, for all that we have imposed silence on them.  The darkness increases within, although the place is open to the sky, and the icy wind blows more mournfully than it did outside.  A penetrating humidity—­a humidity altogether unknown in this country before the inundation—­chills us to the bone.  We are now in that part of the temple which was left uncovered, the part where the faithful used to kneel.  The sonority of the granites round about exaggerates the noise of the oars on the enclosed water, and there is something confusing in the thought that we are rowing and floating between the walls where formerly, and for centuries, men were used to prostrate themselves with their foreheads on the stones.

And now it is quite dark; the hour grows late.  We have to bring the boat close to the walls to distinguish the hieroglyphs and rigid gods which are engraved there as finely as by the burin.  These walls, washed for nearly four years by the inundation, have already taken on at the base that sad blackish colour which may be seen on the old Venetian palaces.

Halt and silence.  It is dark and cold.  The oars no longer move, and we hear only the sighing of the wind and the lapping of the water against the columns and the bas-reliefs—­and then suddenly there comes the noise of a heavy body falling, followed by endless eddies.  A great carved stone has plunged, at its due hour, to rejoin in the black chaos below its fellows that have already disappeared, to rejoin the submerged temples and old Coptic churches, and the town of the first Christian centuries—­all that was once the Isle of Philae, the “pearl of Egypt,” one of the marvels of the world.

The darkness is now extreme and we can see no longer.  Let us go and shelter, no matter where, to await the moon.  At the end of this uncovered hall there opens a door which gives on to deep night.  It is the holy of holies, heavily roofed with granite, the highest part of the temple, the only part which the waters have not yet reached, and there we are able to put foot to earth.  Our footsteps resound noisily on the large resonant flags, and the owls take to flight.  Profound darkness; the wind and the dampness freeze us.  Three hours to go before the rising of the moon; to wait in this place would be our death.  Rather let us return to Chelal, and shelter ourselves in any lodging that offers, however wretched it may be.

*****